Burny John Sykes...

  • Thread starter Thread starter JackBootedThug
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does anybody know anything about Orville's?
Orville’s we’re made by Greco (Fujigen), Tereda and kuramae commissioned by Gibson. In my experience they Fujigen made one’s cut corners compared to the Mint Series. The Tereda made are the best ones, but your going to overpay for the Gibson affiliation.
 
I guess I have no idea of what a real LP should feel like, I think my Edwards custom is pretty ripping and has some weight to it. I'd go for the burny.. I believe they inspect them and have luthiers on site who make sure they go out right. Greco might be on my list but they seem to be creeping up in price to the point I'd pick up a LP standard.
 
I don't have anything 24.75" and I'm not interested in Gibson anymore because of prices. Always lusted after the Edwards sykes so that's why I started the thread. These Jap guitars are a rabbit hole for sure. Especially when you think it's Japanese but it's chinese instead.
 
Just recieved an email-"made in china and set up in Japan..." That's on an Edwards Sykes.

edit-I would prefer MIJ but I'm cool with chinese. I have 1 chinese, 1 Indonesian, and one Japanese right now.
 
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Or should I go for the Edwards model? I assume it's MIJ?
I had the Edwards. The previous owner fucked it all up, and I sent it back. Electrical issues, truss rod didn't function at all. I hated the neck profile..

MIJ would be your best bet, but YMMV. I've owned 2 Edwards, and couldn't bond with either. Necks aren't wide enough for my tastes. They felt like toys.
 
I had the Edwards. The previous owner fucked it all up, and I sent it back. Electrical issues, truss rod didn't function at all. But, I hated the neck profile..

But, MIJ would be your best bet, but YMMV. I've owned 2 Edwards, and couldn't bond with either. Necks aren't wide enough for my tastes.
that was my issue with my ec1000. Looked like a paul. Was heavy like a paul....but the neck was weird as fuck. Felt like a bolt on cheap Jackson or something.
 
Out of all the guitars that I have owned....my old gothic sg had the best playing and feeling neck ever. #2 was a prs artist sc 10 top. neck was a solid piece of rosewood.
 
Just recieved an email-"made in china and set up in Japan..." That's on an Edwards Sykes.

edit-I would prefer MIJ but I'm cool with chinese. I have 1 chinese, 1 Indonesian, and one Japanese right now.

that's the thing, it is a bit shady but sometime in the early mid 2000's, Edwards moved manufacturing to China. BUT because they assembled and did the finishing touches in Japan to an extent, the guitars were considered made in Japan. Now it seems as if there are two tiers. Some are also now fully assembled in China but then in Japan they go back over the details and setup and fret work etc.. so really, if this drops the price some, isn't that a deal? That is what I suspect is happening with Burny. You might be paying more for something to be " setup" in Japan when there is no reason to think that a chinese luthier is any less accomplished after working on these for years at a time. If the guitar meets the japanese standard, I think you have some level of confidence that it will be a nice playing guitar. My Michael Kelly Patriot was almost flawless. There is one small nick in the fretboard marker but other than that, the neck is super smooth, fast, and the fretwork is perfect. Low action, this thing is a player. The guitar doesn't have the heft of my Edwards though but still, when it comes to finish, zero issues. If the Japanese are in charge of making sure the thing plays well, then it will play well. They have high standards in Japan. Less likely to have a " made on a Friday" lemon that you might see out of Mexico.

Take note of the serial number though. the EDXXXXX on Edwards are Japan ( mine is one of those) but the FGXXXXXXX is China. The FG are cheaper but might essentially be the same thing. The japanese are excellent marketers. They know the value of that MIJ stamp and let's face it, so do we. One will hold it's value way more.
 
I haven't played a Burny JS but I do have a Burny RSA-65 (Gibson 335 clone) and it's fuckin awesome
 
I had the Edwards. The previous owner fucked it all up, and I sent it back. Electrical issues, truss rod didn't function at all. I hated the neck profile..

MIJ would be your best bet, but YMMV. I've owned 2 Edwards, and couldn't bond with either. Necks aren't wide enough for my tastes. They felt like toys.

If there is a drawback to the Edwards it would probably be that. I find it to be a bit small past the 12th fret. I wish it were more like the Edwards schenker V I have or like my Explorer. If you have smaller hands though, probably perfect.
 
Damn, Greco's making that GCS look like a hard pass at 5k for used. Damn it man, Are those inlays and fretwork as nice as they appear. Wow
 
Damn, Greco's making that GCS look like a hard pass at 5k for used. Damn it man, Are those inlays and fretwork as nice as they appear. Wow
No brainer, BD. Mine came with significant fretwear, so I got them leveled, filed the nut accordingly, and put an old Shaw Dirty Fingers in the bridge and the guitar kills. The stock Sreaming pups are very good though. I’ve got $1200 into it, for basically a killer ‘84 LP.
 
Do it

sound cexy.jpg
 
Yep. Three Burny Les Pauls here. See attachment.
The Randy Rhoads is an '83, the Black Beauty LPC an '87 and the amber burst Standard a '90, all MIJ of course.
I redid all the hardware and electronics myself, except for the tuners of the amber burst, but I kept the original hardware stored.

Had two more and a Greco LPC (black) that I sold back in the day, when you could buy them every week for $600-700. Nowadays only the roughest ones in Japan, dusty, broken, etc. go for such prices.

I love all three. FWIW, early 80's (late 70's) Greco's sometimes had the split diamond headstock inlay, before they moved to that 'flower pot' motif for the Mint series. But like Scottosan said, those are the ones to get.
For older Burny's there are less tell-tales, since they hardly used serial/type identifications on the guitar. In a lot of cases (like mine) your best bet to date them is to check the pot codes on the volume/tone pots, provided the electronics are original.
And the Burny's with a 3-screw truss rod cover are definitely not 80's. They started using those in the early/mid 90's.
 

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Greco js98k's....anybody know anything about those? They have the kahler's on them....
 
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