Check it... Kemper head format!

[PBGas]

Savage Wood!

Well done!

 

[amiller]

What would be involved in making one for the Kemper toaster version?

No idea since I haven't really inspected one. Are there mounting holes anywhere, such as the bottom?

I'll give it a look when I get off work today.

 

[smdb]

What would be involved in making one for the Kemper toaster version?

No idea since I haven't really inspected one. Are there mounting holes anywhere, such as the bottom?

There are rubber feet on the bottom. Some guys have mounted the toaster into a rack by taking those feet off and screwing the KPA to the rack

 

[Bob Savage]

What would be involved in making one for the Kemper toaster version?

No idea since I haven't really inspected one. Are there mounting holes anywhere, such as the bottom?

There are rubber feet on the bottom. Some guys have mounted the toaster into a rack by taking those feet off and screwing the KPA to the rack

The toaster doesn't have bottom venting? The rack does so I left the feet on my rack unit and just accommodated the cabinet so that space stayed clear.

 

[smdb]

What would be involved in making one for the Kemper toaster version?

No idea since I haven't really inspected one. Are there mounting holes anywhere, such as the bottom?

There are rubber feet on the bottom. Some guys have mounted the toaster into a rack by taking those feet off and screwing the KPA to the rack

The toaster doesn't have bottom venting? The rack does so I left the feet on my rack unit and just accommodated the cabinet so that space stayed clear.

No bottom venting.

 

[Bob Savage]

No bottom venting.

Interesting, I wonder if the powered toaster does?

 

[smdb]

No bottom venting.

Interesting, I wonder if the powered toaster does?

Not sure.The vents are on the back of the non powered toaster

 

[Anonymous]

No bottom venting.

Interesting, I wonder if the powered toaster does?

Not sure.The vents are on the back of the non powered toaster

No vents on the bottom of the powered toaster. They are on the back just like the non-powered…

Steve

 

[jlbaxe]

I like yours better.

http://missionengineering.com/?product= ... -440217141

 

[Ancient Alien]

Nice job.
As a fellow custom wood worker, I was wondering if you have supports behind your miters?
I trust good glue, but I don't trust moisure
Very nice work on the pedalboards too.

 

[Bob Savage]

Nice job.
As a fellow custom wood worker, I was wondering if you have supports behind your miters?
I trust good glue, but I don't trust moisure
Very nice work on the pedalboards too.

Thanks. Below is how I answered on another forum regarding the concern of carrying with the handle as it relates to the miters. I'm not concerned about moisture itself. The glues today are exponentially superior to those of old and you find many miters that are several decades old still intact. That said, I prefer the rabbet dado for its simplicity for most cabs. They're an easier glue up, and overall a stronger joint. Not a fan of the look of box joints and stopped doing dovetails a while back, although they are certainly beautiful.

Carrying this cab regularly will not cause the miters to separate, for a number of reasons but even if only with the strength of the glue, it would not.

The problem with a lot of production miters is they're glued up quickly and slapped together, and the glue is absorbed into the end grain as one would expect, not allowing a thick glue surface and I'm confident you're aware, modern day wood glues are stronger than the surrounding wood. I use the sizing method on my joints to ensure there is plenty of strong glue surface.

Next, the contents of this box is not a 40 lb tube amp, it's a 13.5 lb piece of rack gear, and this includes the 600 watt power amp (this is the PowerRack model).

Finally, the box doesn't rely completely on the joints for its strength, it is reinforced laterally first by the amp itself, as it is attached at each side using two #10 fasteners (4 total), and secondly by the front panel which is glued onto the 3/4"x1" wooden frame which is also glued around the inside perimeter of the cabinet.

It is unnecessary, but the cabinet could be further strengthened by adding a rear panel.

Now, there's no denying that dovetails, box joints or even a rabbet-dado is a stronger joint, however, dovetails and box joints are completely unnecessary nowadays due to the quality of glues available. At this point those joints aren't mechanically necessary but instead, aesthetically pleasing to many.

Like most vinyl covered cabs, although I've seen some with simple butt joints, I like to use the rabbet-dado because it's a simple joint, allows a small amount of end grain to be visible (which I personally like), and it's strong.

To your point about this being more about looks, you're right. Few purchase hardwood cabinets or pedalboards for hard road use, thus further mitigating the risk of failed joints.