Devin
Well-known member
I'm still running the original tubes in my PS1 which was from the very first batch of them
I think they are an awesome piece of gear but imo you don't get that Marshall gut punch or top end slice. And without those two things it always just sounds like a really good approximation. And its a tone that actually might be easier on the ears if you're not in a band situ. But in a band situ those two things are part of what makes Marshalls so great.I would imagine turning those controls totally off would be like turning all your tone controls off on your plexi amp and expecting it to sound good, but I don't know what the owners manual says about them.
On the 6550 tubes they should have quite a long life as I doubt they are not being pushed very hard being used in this application and they are a very balanced tube soundwise with a wide frequency response so extreme coloring really should not be a issue. As with any attenuator or power amp some coloring is expected to a certain degree but some really great ears like Dave Friedman have used the Fryette PS-1PS2 and PS100 with glowing reviews since it's inception. I have considered one myself.
On the other hand I have read some reviews here by peoples opinions I respect that claimed there was some coloring issues they didn't like so I guess it comes down to what you personally hear.YMMV...
This... That's the problem, no doubt.Don't concern yourself with what you've read - the internet is mostly wrong. Turn those knobs (and mess with the switches) until you're happy!
Great post.First off as others have mentioned chances of the tubes being a problem are extremely low. It would be obvious if really a issue.
All the controls on the Power Station are there for a reason. Use all of them. The idea there is a best or right and wrong way is nonsense.
This is how to use the Power Station.... I got this information from Steve Fryette.
1 - Set up your amp for the sound you want with the Power Station in Bypass.
2 - Both voicing switches and all knobs all the way down.
3 - Switch Power Station to Operate.
4 - It is now time to use your ears.
5 - Turn the Volume on the Power Station to the volume you want to use.
6 - Adjust the the Deep - Warm - Flat switch first.
7 - Next adjust the Edge- Brite-Flat switch.
8 - After that adjust the Depth knob.
9 - Last adjust the Presence knob.
*****Do not for any reason change this order. *****
After that play for a bit and fine tune the amp and Power Station. It should be very little adjustment.
How loud you are playing in the room is going to have very different settings on the Power Station.
Any way you lower the volume no matter what gear you use or don't use is going to change the sound and feel. This is just basic physics.
Your never going to completely duplicate the sound and feel of your amp with not using the Power Station. The idea is to get the best results from the gear your using.
Interesting. I had read that in the FLAT positions it's a straight up resistive load, so BRITE and WARM must be 'half way' between resistive and reactive.We've done quite a bit of testing with the PS and various other loads. We've found that the impedance curve (IC) of the Fryette's internal load is closest to a typical 412 cab when both Deep and Edge are selected. It's not perfect - no load is - but it's close enough for rock n' roll and closer than when the switches are in any other configuration. The IC is independent of the Pres and Deep knobs, as they are power amps controls and not load voicing options.
If re-amping, then starting with Pres and Deep knobs off and then seasoning to taste is the way to go. The load's IC is doing the heavy lifting in terms of shaping the overall tone as a cab would (a LF resonant peak and a large HF lift).
Your right Flat is resistive. The other settings are just different combinations that simulation different speakers. Brite and Warm Steve has mentioned what is most Celestion users tend to prefer.Interesting. I had read that in the FLAT positions it's a straight up resistive load, so BRITE and WARM must be 'half way' between resistive and reactive.
View attachment 138907
I measured the Fryette with some poweramps a while ago, I may have left off Edge+Deep from this graph (which is definitely closest to the cab loads for me). Sometimes I like Bright and Deep, occasionally edge can be a bit much with some amps.
One other interesting I found is the load shapes are a bit different for different input impedances. From menorah, 16 ohms is more flat/less resonant than 8 ohms. Presumably 4 ohms is more resonant still.
To quote a stale and overused popculture reference: This is the way.First off as others have mentioned chances of the tubes being a problem are extremely low. It would be obvious if really a issue.
All the controls on the Power Station are there for a reason. Use all of them. The idea there is a best or right and wrong way is nonsense.
This is how to use the Power Station.... I got this information from Steve Fryette.
1 - Set up your amp for the sound you want with the Power Station in Bypass.
2 - Both voicing switches and all knobs all the way down.
3 - Switch Power Station to Operate.
4 - It is now time to use your ears.
5 - Turn the Volume on the Power Station to the volume you want to use.
6 - Adjust the the Deep - Warm - Flat switch first.
7 - Next adjust the Edge- Brite-Flat switch.
8 - After that adjust the Depth knob.
9 - Last adjust the Presence knob.
*****Do not for any reason change this order. *****
After that play for a bit and fine tune the amp and Power Station. It should be very little adjustment.
How loud you are playing in the room is going to have very different settings on the Power Station.
Any way you lower the volume no matter what gear you use or don't use is going to change the sound and feel. This is just basic physics.
Your never going to completely duplicate the sound and feel of your amp with not using the Power Station. The idea is to get the best results from the gear your using.
basically making an IR of a sine going into the fx return and then out of the power amp via a DI. These graphs show the effect on the power amp (rather than the impedance curve) so they’ll vary based on which amp is in use.Killer graph this Ed. What tool/setup are you using to measure these impedance curves if you don't mind me asking?
This is super cool, and a very clear explanation. The reactance of the load of course reflects back through the OT. I'll check out Room EQ Wizard.basically making an IR of a sine going into the fx return and then out of the power amp via a DI. These graphs show the effect on the power amp (rather than the impedance curve) so they’ll vary based on which amp is in use.
Room EQ Wizard makes the graphs, you can just drag IR’s into it and it’ll do the rest.
Room EQ Wizard have an online guide somewhere that shows how to measure the impedance curve of a load, it’s a little more complicated but I’m sure you’d be more capable than me to do it! I find it interesting to know both the load, but also the effect it has when in use
More than welcome mate. I found the impedance guide too - https://www.roomeqwizard.com/help/help_en-GB/html/impedancemeasurement.htmlThis is super cool, and a very clear explanation. The reactance of the load of course reflects back through the OT. I'll check out Room EQ Wizard.
I should have said ... This is the way Steve Fryette said how to use it. That would be more accurate.To quote a stale and overused popculture reference: This is the way.