Just placed an order with Warmoth - finished pics added

  • Thread starter Thread starter mrp5150
  • Start date Start date
Code001":3m7tfohc said:
Just finished it. :rock:

DSC01357.jpg

DSC01358.jpg


Sounds good and plays great. The Musikraft necks are WAY better than the Warmoth necks. I could get the thing down to 1/16'' action without a problem measured @ the 12th fret. I wasn't able to do that with my Warmoth guitar. Fret ends feel nice, and the semi-rolled edges feel great, too. Neck is extremely straight with just a hint of relief. Guitar has some fairly nice weight to it as well.

Sweet!
My action is 1/16th at the 22nd fret and 12th fret. 1/32nd at the 5th... :D
 
itsme":1hy9shrx said:
Looks awesome! What radius is that fretboard? Compound?

Thanks man. Here are all the specs for the neck.

Handed: Right Handed
Neck and Finger Board Combination Style: Skunk Stripe Style All One Piece
Nut Style: Floyd Rose Shelf
Neck Wood: Birdseye Select Grade
Fingerboard Wood: Same as Neck Wood (Skunk Stripe Style)
Number of Frets: 22 Fret with Finger Board Extension
Finger Board Radius: 12
Finger Board Inlay: Black
Side Markers: Black 2 mm
Fret Size and Type: Jumbo 6100 (.110 Wide X .055 Tall)
Tuner Hole Size: Standard 10 mm Gotoh / Sperzel / Shaller
Nut Width: 1-11/16
Heel Type and Size: Standard Strat Heel 2-3/16
Truss Rod Option: Vintage Single Acting Adjust at Heel
Neck Profile: Thin D .750 X .810
Custom Upcharges as discussed with Sales Rep: None
Finish: Sealed Wood Stabilizer Good for all Finishes
Additional Options: Standard Semi Rolled Finger Board Edges
Drill Neck Mounting Holes Standard Fender 4 Bolt
Narrow 12th Dots Spacing Post 1964 and Charvel
 
What did the total cost of the project end up coming out to? PM if you'd like to PRMark.
 
Inearthed":26zgofzi said:
What did the total cost of the project end up coming out to? PM if you'd like to PRMark.

Little bit over a grand. :thumbsup:
 
that thing looks sweet. looking at the warmoth site now is making me want to build a guitar
 
RaceU4her":3lmt018v said:
that thing looks sweet. looking at the warmoth site now is making me want to build a guitar

Thanks man! Code001 said the same thing. He wants to build a few guitars now too. :rock:
 
Wow, that looks great. If I was going to build a strat, it would be awfully close to that one! :yes: :thumbsup:
 
So is the radius on a FR 12deg like your fretboard, or is it 14 like a Schaller, or 10 like a Fender for that matter? Also, what the heck do they mean by C or D shaped?
 
moronmountain":1ghurt47 said:
So is the radius on a FR 12deg like your fretboard, or is it 14 like a Schaller, or 10 like a Fender for that matter? Also, what the heck do they mean by C or D shaped?

C and D just refers to the neck shape. Fender necks are usually more of a C shape and something like an Ibeenhad has more of a D shape. The neck profile I got is the Charvel San Dimas one.
 
Megadeth7684":29vbor5x said:
moronmountain":29vbor5x said:
So is the radius on a FR 12deg like your fretboard, or is it 14 like a Schaller, or 10 like a Fender for that matter? Also, what the heck do they mean by C or D shaped?

C and D just refers to the neck shape. Fender necks are usually more of a C shape and something like an Ibeenhad has more of a D shape. The neck profile I got is the Charvel San Dimas one.

Yeah I knew it was neck shape, but I was trying to figure out what it meant. So a D shape is "flatter" than a C shape? What's the San Dimas neck like? I haven't played one of those since I was 16, and that was a VERY long time ago. Thanks for the info.
 
That looks awesome. I've been kicking around the idea of building a custom Strat and I think this has pushed me to finally do it.
 
moronmountain":8vgryizf said:
So is the radius on a FR 12deg like your fretboard, or is it 14 like a Schaller, or 10 like a Fender for that matter? Also, what the heck do they mean by C or D shaped?

OFR is a 10º radius, while his fretboard is a 12º radius. I don't have any shims, so I couldn't shim the OFR to 12º, but with his playing style and action preferences, he'll never really notice a difference one way or the other. The neck is a D shape which is similar to an Ibanez neck shape, but with a little more meat on it. It's still a fairly thin neck overall, though. Keep in mind, I'm referring to the back of the neck, not the fretboard area. This might help you to visualize it:

http://www.warmoth.com/guitar/necks/nec ... k_profiles

Their "standard thin" neck is a slight D shape, while their "fat" is a thick C shape. "Boat" and "Clapton" are both V shapes.
 
EvilBatman":39j5deve said:
That looks awesome. I've been kicking around the idea of building a custom Strat and I think this has pushed me to finally do it.

Go for it man! :rock:
 
Copperhead":1t0op039 said:
moronmountain":1t0op039 said:
So is the radius on a FR 12deg like your fretboard, or is it 14 like a Schaller, or 10 like a Fender for that matter? Also, what the heck do they mean by C or D shaped?

FYI - it's a radius, measured in inches, not a degree. ;)

http://www.warmoth.com/guitar/necks/nec ... ion=radius

D'oh I knew that lol! I've been wanting to build a super strat because no one really makes them with a 24.74" scale. I would probably go with a 14" radius because Schaller trems are 14" IIRC. I just don't know what nut width to go with to make the strings run straight down the neck. Once I figure that out, I'd probably be pretty close to ordering a neck and body. I'm kinda a perfectionist, and want to make sure I get it JUST right before ordering.
 
My GMW is being redone to a 12" - 18" compound. All I know is the straight 12" just didn't work for me.
 
Copperhead":2qjpwm9u said:
My GMW is being redone to a 12" - 18" compound. All I know is the straight 12" just didn't work for me.

So Warmoth defaults to a 10-16" radius. If I chose this would an OFR at 10" or a Schaller at 14" (I think even the Schaller has a 10" nut though?) be the way to go? What didn't you like about the straight radius? I have a Gibson V that I LOVE the neck on, and Gibsons have a straight 12" radius don't they? I think Jackson used to use a 16", but I think even they have gone compound. It's really too much to think about lol. I was thinking the straight radius because I figure it would be easier to get the frets level on. I don't friggin know.... :doh:
 
What I figured out real quick was that with the Floyd, the bridge plate is flat. So the further you go up the neck, action on the two top (and bottom) strings sucks worse and worse. I tried different relief amounts on the neck and played with the angle of attack with shims, but suck is suck. The D & G strings would be great, but on the outside strings I was fretting out and action was still too high. :doh:

Now add the jumbo frets.....the problem for me was not the width of the frets but the height. I play a lot of jazz stuff with many chords between oh, say 9 and 17....it was like trying to play chords on a scalloped neck. I'm sure I could develop a touch for it after a long while, but dear Lord it was humbling to say the least.

The USA Jacksons I've seen recently have some super low action "out of the box." I'm sure the compound radius contributes to that. I do not care for the jumbo frets on the Jacksons, though. I guess I'm a 6105 kinda guy and that's it.

edit: As far as fret leveling, do you use a jig? There's a guy I use locally that has a jig that the guitar locks into. When the strings are removed, the neck stays in place. He does a pretty nice fret dress. The Wolfgangs I play are compound radius, I haven't heard from him that they are any more or less difficult to do.
 
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