Mod 50

  • Thread starter Thread starter Buckeyedog
  • Start date Start date
richedie":7c5f7 said:
Sorry about your issue man. I hope it all works. I also took my chances when buying mine but communication has been good and it worked out. I am glad you love the amp though.

I thought you have to re-bias the power tubes....how are you just popping them in? I thought I needed at least a multimeter. I have a cheap $20 multimeter I use for pickup readings.

Yep, use the multi meter and it takes like 3 minutes. Directions are in the manual. Set it to read DC mv. Plug the black into the common and red into the other insert (one per each tube). Then just follow the settings in the manual by tube type by turning the little bias pot with a small screwdriver. Make sure to use high power and turn all the controls to 0. Easy as cake. Check it out and if you need some additional help, send me a pm or I can call and we can work you through it. Read through the bias section of the manual and it's pretty clear.
 
Finally heard from Ejecta! Said he was on vacation last week. Cool, sure was hoping it was something like that. Anyway, he said he will ship out the back panel and hopefully the power cord. He said he didn't have the footswitch. So appears most is well again.

Jeff, I'll still need a footswitch, so just let me know man.
 
Buckeyedog":330c9 said:
Finally heard from Ejecta! Said he was on vacation last week. Cool, sure was hoping it was something like that. Anyway, he said he will ship out the back panel and hopefully the power cord. He said he didn't have the footswitch. So appears most is well again.

Jeff, I'll still need a footswitch, so just let me know man.

Glad you finally got communication! We are out of footswitches at the moment. Ours are better but the Randall one will work and is cheaper. Its more than a month out on them.
 
Jeff Hilligan said:
Glad you finally got communication! We are out of footswitches at the moment. Ours are better but the Randall one will work and is cheaper. Its more than a month out on them.

Is the the RF4 that goes to the RM4?? I saw it on the Randall site for $79. Let me know if that's the right one. And does the cable come with it??
 
Jeff Hilligan":4c0ee said:
Buckeyedog":4c0ee said:
Finally heard from Ejecta! Said he was on vacation last week. Cool, sure was hoping it was something like that. Anyway, he said he will ship out the back panel and hopefully the power cord. He said he didn't have the footswitch. So appears most is well again.

Jeff, I'll still need a footswitch, so just let me know man.

Glad you finally got communication! We are out of footswitches at the moment. Ours are better but the Randall one will work and is cheaper. Its more than a month out on them.

Mario backed up on those footswitches Jeff? Is Axess actually making them or just did the midi implementation? Either way, its a really rugged switch!

-Matt
 
EWSEthan":4ac20 said:
Jeff Hilligan":4ac20 said:
Buckeyedog":4ac20 said:
Finally heard from Ejecta! Said he was on vacation last week. Cool, sure was hoping it was something like that. Anyway, he said he will ship out the back panel and hopefully the power cord. He said he didn't have the footswitch. So appears most is well again.

Jeff, I'll still need a footswitch, so just let me know man.

Glad you finally got communication! We are out of footswitches at the moment. Ours are better but the Randall one will work and is cheaper. Its more than a month out on them.

Mario backed up on those footswitches Jeff? Is Axess actually making them or just did the midi implementation? Either way, its a really rugged switch!

-Matt

Both..doing a midi upgrade and dont have any of the housings. Your right though they are almost indestructable!
 
Jeff Hilligan":80530 said:
Both..doing a midi upgrade and dont have any of the housings. Your right though they are almost indestructable!

Mario makes a great, great product (I love his buffer!) and is a super nice guy. What is this midi upgrade all about?

-Matt
 
I didn't realize Axess was making the switches. I thought the Entire amp was Egnater.
 
I'm confused where this conversation is going??

1) Mario did the midi circuit design for the Egnater pedal a few years ago. It is the same circuit design as the Randall pedal. Mario does not manufacture the pedal for either company. We (Egnater) make ours and Randall has theirs made elsewhere.
2) There is no midi upgrade (more confusion?) We (Egnater) are simply out of the 4 and 6 button pedals for about another 6 weeks. Randall may have them in stock or you can purchase Randall's through Musicians Friend or Sam Ash Music.
 
No matter to me, I just need one!! Ha Ha! I'm going to get the RF4 from Sam Ash for $49. Then the Mod 50 will be ready to kick ass on the gig baby!! It already kicks in the basement.
 
Dang, even the Randall footswitches are on back order!! Supposed to be in end of the month. Got 4 gigs in Sep. so they better get in!!

Ordering 5881's and 6v6's for it next!
 
Do you guys know if I need a 7 pin midi cable such as the 7-pin Rocktron cable to phantom power the pedalboard? This cable that came with the amp is a bit short and only has 5 pins. Funny though, it still powers the board. I bought the amp from a guy in California.

The manual states it uses phantom power to power the board but this cable only has 5 pins! Very odd, because it still powers the board....unless it has hidden batteries.
 
richedie":62c5a said:
Do you guys know if I need a 7 pin midi cable such as the 7-pin Rocktron cable to phantom power the pedalboard? This cable that came with the amp is a bit short and only has 5 pins. Funny though, it still powers the board. I bought the amp from a guy in California.

The manual states it uses phantom power to power the board but this cable only has 5 pins! Very odd, because it still powers the board....unless it has hidden batteries.

Definitely no batteries. Youre getting phantom powered. Since your current 5-pin cable works, Id say that any any 5-pin would work. I never actually looked at the number of pins in my cable that came from Egnater. Theres some definite confusion and inconsistent info out there about number of pins and phantom power. I had read a few times that only 7-pins can phantom power, however, I know that Voodoo says a 5-pin can phantom power their Ground Control Pro. Maybe it depends on the midi implementation and that some can use one of the 5-pins for power if not all are being used? But then thats hardly what Id call a firm spec. Who knows? (Probably Bruce or Jeff!) I wouldnt worry about it if I were you. If youre getting powered by the 5 youre all good.

-Matt
 
Buckeyedog":a3f0e said:
richedie":a3f0e said:
Sorry about your issue man. I hope it all works. I also took my chances when buying mine but communication has been good and it worked out. I am glad you love the amp though.

I thought you have to re-bias the power tubes....how are you just popping them in? I thought I needed at least a multimeter. I have a cheap $20 multimeter I use for pickup readings.

Yep, use the multi meter and it takes like 3 minutes. Directions are in the manual. Set it to read DC mv. Plug the black into the common and red into the other insert (one per each tube). Then just follow the settings in the manual by tube type by turning the little bias pot with a small screwdriver. Make sure to use high power and turn all the controls to 0. Easy as cake. Check it out and if you need some additional help, send me a pm or I can call and we can work you through it. Read through the bias section of the manual and it's pretty clear.

I just did it for my SED Winged EL34s and they read 39 so I bumped them up to 40. I may even try them at 41 or 42 because I was tlaking to my amp tech friend and he said he always finds amps sound better with the tubes running hot even though they burn out faster. I also found this to be true in amps he has biased for me! Plus, with two tubes I don't care if they burn out too fast.

I wonder how JJ EL34s would sound in this amp? JJs can be real ballsy and thick. Anymore I tend to keep what the maker intended. I think there is a reason Bruce chose these SED EL34 tubes as stock.

What about preamp tubes? EH is a good choose! I might try Tung Sol or JJ....but not sure.
My tech here again says he finds Tung Sol and EH better than JJ for preamp tubes.
 
richedie":104a3 said:
Buckeyedog":104a3 said:
richedie":104a3 said:
Sorry about your issue man. I hope it all works. I also took my chances when buying mine but communication has been good and it worked out. I am glad you love the amp though.

I thought you have to re-bias the power tubes....how are you just popping them in? I thought I needed at least a multimeter. I have a cheap $20 multimeter I use for pickup readings.

Yep, use the multi meter and it takes like 3 minutes. Directions are in the manual. Set it to read DC mv. Plug the black into the common and red into the other insert (one per each tube). Then just follow the settings in the manual by tube type by turning the little bias pot with a small screwdriver. Make sure to use high power and turn all the controls to 0. Easy as cake. Check it out and if you need some additional help, send me a pm or I can call and we can work you through it. Read through the bias section of the manual and it's pretty clear.

I just did it for my SED Winged EL34s and they read 39 so I bumped them up to 40. I may even try them at 41 or 42 because I was tlaking to my amp tech friend and he said he always finds amps sound better with the tubes running hot even though they burn out faster. I also found this to be true in amps he has biased for me! Plus, with two tubes I don't care if they burn out too fast.

I wonder how JJ EL34s would sound in this amp? JJs can be real ballsy and thick. Anymore I tend to keep what the maker intended. I think there is a reason Bruce chose these SED EL34 tubes as stock.

What about preamp tubes? EH is a good choose! I might try Tung Sol or JJ....but not sure.
My tech here again says he finds Tung Sol and EH better than JJ for preamp tubes.
I use the JJ E34Ls and I really like the sound,right now my MOD is in my living room and I am running yellowjacket triodes in it with EL84s pretty killer at much lower volumes,This amp does so much with a lot of combinations,Incredible!! :)
 
I'm so ate up. I have Winged C el34's, GTM EL34's, JJE34L's, Chinese 6L6's, Ruby EL34's and I ordered some Tung Sol 5881's and JJ 6V6's!! I love tubes!! I think the Winged C's are my fav so far. Gotta try the JJE34L's next. Man, this amp is fun..........
 
Buckeyedog":a0549 said:
I'm so ate up. I have Winged C el34's, GTM EL34's, JJE34L's, Chinese 6L6's, Ruby EL34's and I ordered some Tung Sol 5881's and JJ 6V6's!! I love tubes!! I think the Winged C's are my fav so far. Gotta try the JJE34L's next. Man, this amp is fun..........
Ain't that the tuth!
 
Buckeyedog":e5144 said:
I'm so ate up. I have Winged C el34's, GTM EL34's, JJE34L's, Chinese 6L6's, Ruby EL34's and I ordered some Tung Sol 5881's and JJ 6V6's!! I love tubes!! I think the Winged C's are my fav so far. Gotta try the JJE34L's next. Man, this amp is fun..........

Jesus Christ thats alot of tubes! Ive been running the Tung-Sol 5881s because my main sound is a mix of Fender and Marshall modules and those seem to give me the best compromise. If I were running VX and SL2, Id absolutley use EL34s. Similarly, if I was using T/D and E-Rect, Id use 6L6s.

The Tung-Sol 5881s are great long lasting tubes though. Mine have been pushed alot loud for a few months.
 
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