So you mean just soldering it over the top and attaching the legs to the .0047 legs or do you mean disconnecting one leg and attach it to one leg of the new cap and then the other leg to the lug?Just grab a 0.0022uF and put it in parallel. 0.0069uF is close enough to 0.0068uF.
Solder over the top of the other one so they both connect in the same manner.So you mean just soldering it over the top and attaching the legs to the .0047 legs or do you mean disconnecting one leg and attach it to one leg of the new cap and then the other leg to the lug?
I’m ordering caps. .0047 and .0068. Can you send a link to what I should get? The last link Posted, that company doesn’t have .0068.
And what about a push pull 1meg. I assume audio but I saw someone say linear too. I’d like an alpha push pull 1 meg audio but I can’t find any.
Then what resistors in the nfb circuit in the board? Current is 47k but I’d like a 33k and 100k to try.
I ordered all of the stuff. I also bought a 50k pot and a 33k resistor to measure and see what I will like. Can you tell me how to hook this up and test?
It was hard to find a .0068 cap so I ordered a bunch of stuff. Ceramic, silver mica, mallory, synergy, and sozo. I guess I will end up testing them all.
Yes, measuring the pot out of circuit is a must.And to test, find the pot setting that sounds good to you. Give it time. At least a few hours of playing so you know what you like. Then unclip pot from circuit and measure with a meter. Resistor + pot value = NFB resistor value. For example, if pot is 42K with 33K resistor = 75K total.
Agreed, but I would suggest he actually solder in the parts. Nothing against him, but he seems pretty green and I’d hate to see something bad happen to him or the amp.And to test, find the pot setting that sounds good to you. Give it time. At least a few hours of playing so you know what you like. Then unclip pot from circuit and measure with a meter. Resistor + pot value = NFB resistor value. For example, if pot is 42K with 33K resistor = 75K total.
Agreed, but I would suggest he actually solder in the parts. Nothing against him, but he seems pretty green and I’d hate to see something bad happen to him or the amp.
Agreed, but I would suggest he actually solder in the parts. Nothing against him, but he seems pretty green and I’d hate to see something bad happen to him or the amp.
I’m gonna jump in, and ask a question for all of you knowledgeable tech meisters…As I've gotten older, I like less and less NFB.
That’s what the Mesa modern mode does - it cuts all NFB completely.I’m gonna jump in, and ask a question for all of you knowledgeable tech meisters…
What are your thoughts on getting rid of the NFB completely?
Although it seems like NFB would be a really subtle affect on overall tone when it's not there you really notice it and miss it.I bought a 75' JMP a few years back, which I still have, that has an Aldrich type mod on it. It had no NFB when I got it. I added a NFB circuit though. It sounds better with it. Very raw and loose without one.
Reason I ask is, I had a local tech check out my 83 2205 and he did find some cold solder joints that needed refreshing; he also removed the NFB. So far I really dig it; sounds much better and with a boost it’s among the best 800s I’ve owned. Now, I haven’t turned it up very far yet but the clarity of the chords, single note stuff is much improved. He wanted me to try it and see…he can always put it right back in. Impressed so far.I bought a 75' JMP a few years back, which I still have, that has an Aldrich type mod on it. It had no NFB when I got it. I added a NFB circuit though. It sounds better with it. Very raw and loose without one.
If you want the option, use a 47k NFB resistor with a 250k pot inline. You'll be pretty close to having no NFB wit the pot all the way up.