Schematic for Jose Build

  • Thread starter Thread starter FourT6and2
  • Start date Start date
NeilOConnor said:
FourT6and2, I own one of your custom Jose builds and it's a stellar amp. A mean machine with a bad attitude, sounds like it needs anger management. Your work is exceptional (y)
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Thanks, Neil! Glad you're enjoying it :) And yeah, my tonal taste gravitates toward an angry and pissed-off character. But not too hairy, so it retains some of that sweetness and isn't too fatiguing on the ear.
 
I just wanted to thank you guys for your thoughts and knowledge that you have shared in these posts. Much appreciated!
 
I see the video & photo on the first post - but I don't see a schematic in it - just a broken image link dczq6kk-08933baf-9d55-4139-9edc-e7c021cf795d.jpg . Was the schematic removed?
 
riq said:
I see the video & photo on the first post - but I don't see a schematic in it - just a broken image link dczq6kk-08933baf-9d55-4139-9edc-e7c021cf795d.jpg . Was the schematic removed?
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Yes
 
FourT6and2 said:
I *would* or I do? Because I don't really sell amps. I've sold a few here and there over the years but it's just a hobby.
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For someone like me who can barely swap pickups or bias an old amp, where would you begin to learn how to make a guitar amp? I think it's really awesome you can make one.
 
FourT6and2 said:
I *would* or I do? Because I don't really sell amps. I've sold a few here and there over the years but it's just a hobby.
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Ya work is immaculate !! Search thru ya build and remember you have 1 of nicest building work done on ya SLOclone !!
 
Thanks guys, that means a lot. I enjoy taking my time with each one and building them right!
 
FourT6and2 said:
I think it'd be cool to hardwire the 18v zeners across the master volume, then put MPSA06 on one side of a three-way, and 2N5401 on the other. That way the "clipping" switch would act as a high-gain "flavor" type of thing and when set in the middle, the amp would still be high-gain but more of an '80s monster
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I wanted to do something similar but still with a "no clipper" option. It seems that having a clipping "style" switch combined with a clipping ON/OFF switch with a compensation resistor for no volume drop would be ideal but its a whole nuther switch.
 
SpiderWars said:
I wanted to do something similar but still with a "no clipper" option. It seems that having a clipping "style" switch combined with a clipping ON/OFF switch with a compensation resistor for no volume drop would be ideal but its a whole nuther switch.
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That's basically what I did with the amp in the first post. Except no volume compensation. Just a 6-position rotary. First position is no clipping and then I have a bunch of diode/transistor options. I don't think volume comp is needed since you're not really switching live during a song. The amount of clipping changes but the "tone" is pretty consistent between all the options so I don't see why it would be necessary to switch live. There are very slight gain-character changes but it's not audible in the context of a live band to the point where the audience (or anybody) would hear a difference when switched live during a song. So really... it's not hard to just reach over and spin the master volume a bit to compensate IMO.
 
Hey man, reviving this post again, because I built the nameless amp and who else to ask honestly :).
I originally fell in love with it because of the plugin, mainly the crossover crunch tone, I really liked how it cleaned up into this sterile non offensive clean tone, but when I engaged the full volume, it got very usable rhythm tones for my taste. The full blown metal stuff, I could not care less about.

Now, with the amp built, the qualities are 90% there, but I have the following questions:
- Do you remember maybe what the PT and OT transformers were? I got 440V (loaded) on the plates, about 180-ish on V1a plate. No dropper between PI and 2nd tube. I biased for 35mA, my output impedance can be 3.5k, 3.8k, or 7.5k. I have a weird UL Partridge that can do some interesting load combinations, but it cannot do the 4-6k region reflected to 8ohms. I have an 8 Ohm loadbox. Still feel like it should be somewhere around 4.5k. 3.8k feels like not enough headroom, while 7.5k sounds very direct, thin and rushed.
I adjusted many things, the most difference made was from getting the 150k leaks, the 10k grid stoppers right. I was surprised by the difference made by 6.8k grid stoppers and 220k leaks vs. what I have now.

Still, the amp lacks some clarity.

- the other question is, do you recall how the 1st stage bypass was configured? In the plugin it stayed relatively bright and usable, but when I bypass the 1st stage, ground the 68k-68k connection and go into V2a with a 33k grid stopper, it is still kinda stale. My thought is, maybe it was configured to turn off the 2nd stage and go from the 330k triode into V2a skipping V1b?

Many thanks if you happen to remember how it was configured. I am not planning to keep it like the original, but first want to see it and hear it and go from there. Just want to get it right once and proceed afterwards.

I am aware the plugin gets different impedance simulation and it maybe entirely impossible to get that tone out of this amp. So I am not chasing absolute perfection, just want to see if I got it right.

Cheers!
 
mods+life=heaven said:
Hey man, reviving this post again, because I built the nameless amp and who else to ask honestly :).
I originally fell in love with it because of the plugin, mainly the crossover crunch tone, I really liked how it cleaned up into this sterile non offensive clean tone, but when I engaged the full volume, it got very usable rhythm tones for my taste. The full blown metal stuff, I could not care less about.

Now, with the amp built, the qualities are 90% there, but I have the following questions:
- Do you remember maybe what the PT and OT transformers were? I got 440V (loaded) on the plates, about 180-ish on V1a plate. No dropper between PI and 2nd tube. I biased for 35mA, my output impedance can be 3.5k, 3.8k, or 7.5k. I have a weird UL Partridge that can do some interesting load combinations, but it cannot do the 4-6k region reflected to 8ohms. I have an 8 Ohm loadbox. Still feel like it should be somewhere around 4.5k. 3.8k feels like not enough headroom, while 7.5k sounds very direct, thin and rushed.
I adjusted many things, the most difference made was from getting the 150k leaks, the 10k grid stoppers right. I was surprised by the difference made by 6.8k grid stoppers and 220k leaks vs. what I have now.

Still, the amp lacks some clarity.

- the other question is, do you recall how the 1st stage bypass was configured? In the plugin it stayed relatively bright and usable, but when I bypass the 1st stage, ground the 68k-68k connection and go into V2a with a 33k grid stopper, it is still kinda stale. My thought is, maybe it was configured to turn off the 2nd stage and go from the 330k triode into V2a skipping V1b?

Many thanks if you happen to remember how it was configured. I am not planning to keep it like the original, but first want to see it and hear it and go from there. Just want to get it right once and proceed afterwards.

I am aware the plugin gets different impedance simulation and it maybe entirely impossible to get that tone out of this amp. So I am not chasing absolute perfection, just want to see if I got it right.

Cheers!
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I'm not sure what you're asking. What is the Nameless?

EDIT:
If the Nameless is based on a Fortin Meshuggah, you can try the following:

PT: 1202-55 from Merren, Marstran, or Heyboer
OT: 784-139
V1a input grid stopper can be 10K – 33K or even nothing if you don't mine RF
Power tube grid resistors: 10K
150K grid leaks in PI
You need the missing 10K interstage B+ dropper between PI and CF
1st stage bypass is 0.68uF
You need the 68K/68K you mention
No other grid stopper. The other 68K is the grid stopper for the next stage
 
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FourT6and2 said:
I'm not sure what you're asking. What is the Nameless?

EDIT:
If the Nameless is based on a Fortin Meshuggah, you can try the following:

PT: 1202-55 from Merren, Marstran, or Heyboer
OT: 784-139
V1a input grid stopper can be 10K – 33K or even nothing if you don't mine RF
Power tube grid resistors: 10K
150K grid leaks in PI
You need the missing 10K interstage B+ dropper between PI and CF
1st stage bypass is 0.68uF
You need the 68K/68K you mention
No other grid stopper. The other 68K is the grid stopper for the next stage
Click to expand...
Thank you. Yes, it's the Meshuggah amp.

And sorry, by 1st stage bypass I meant the low-high input, doesn't that turn off the 1st stage?
 
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