Show your pedalboard!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Joeytpg
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rlord1974":380ezqcx said:
Is it just me, or do a lot of these pedalboards look like they have never been used? :confused:
Most of my stuff on it (and the board itself) are only a few weeks to months old. (Recently switching back to primarily tubes from modeling.) It still probably won't see much 'stage time,' though. It took me about 5 years to finally find a bass player and a drummer with equally bitchy work schedules to even think about forming a band. If we play out once a month, that will probably be a lot. The last 'regular' situation I was in was a church band, so that was always on carpet and in a smoke-and-beer-free environment, too. :D

Now 25 years ago, when I was in a second-rate (OK, probably third-rate) cover band, all of my stuff was beat up from playing seedy dives every weekend. :lol: :LOL:
 
rlord1974":21ntebta said:
Is it just me, or do a lot of these pedalboards look like they have never been used? :confused: Maybe they're fully utilized at gigs in Madison Square Basement? Or do you guys spit shine the pedals after every gig? Not knockin' anyone, just wondering how you keep them so clean?

Next time I'm at my rehearsal spot I'll take a pic and post it up. My board looks like it's seen one too many gigs in Chernoybl, during the meltdown! Still gets 'er done though! :thumbsup:

I took my pictures after I redid my pedalboard and cleaned it up, I assume the others are the same way. I also keep my pedalboard covered when its not in use to keep the dust down. Right now I am not playing out, other than for my Church, so the pedalboards are not getting moved. Hope to find another band soon.
 
TJSlice":3ep4symd said:
rlord1974":3ep4symd said:
TJSlice":3ep4symd said:
rlord74, I figure most of these boards are in flight cases, and most of the abuse would probably go on to the switches, either on the pedals or the switchboxes, lol...

I hear you on the flight cases. But my board is in a flight case too, and it still looks like it has spent the past few years in the "trap" under the seat of a Johnny-On-The-Spot! :scared:

Maybe your stomps like to get dirty and possibly be abused a lil bit. Maybe they have Battered Stompbox Syndrome? :dunno:

Yeah, you're right - they like it a little rough..... ;)
 
I can barely keep a pedal on my board long enough to wear it out, except for the footswitch. I feel like I'm swapping wahs and overdrives bi-weekly lately. :lol: :LOL: :lol: :LOL:

Then again, I'm currrently NOT in a gigging band. :cry: :cry:

When I am gigging regularly, I'm too busy to swap pedals that much. Hoping that I get back into the swing of things soon.

The only thing that's different on this board is I replaced the BS2 with an MXR CAE Line Driver.

web.jpg
 
Lots of interesting and valuable info here. thanks. I spent the previous week on "vacation" *cough* helping a buddy build a pedalboard... what we came up with was really only to make some sanity out of all the wiring (amp switcher going to 3 seperate memory mans going to 3 amps, each chain with a few other fx pedals in it, bla bla bla.).. when phase 2 gets built, I'm sure some of the links and gear listed here will be perused! :)
 
Here's mine, it's stayed the same for a while.
 

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here's my old board (midi controlled, axess electronics grx4 + mfc5)

board.jpg


and here's one i did a while back for a local guy:

bobcorson1.png
 
Joeytpg":3462p3f8 said:
I'm getting more and more interested in building my own pedalboard with a nice selection of pedals..... show me yours so I can have a good example of how to build a nice looking/optimal functioning pedalboard.

I'll take a new pic after I've moved house.

For your information, I have:
  • Electro Harmonix Deluxe Electric Mistress flanger
  • Electro Harmonix Polyphonic Octave Generator POG
  • Electro Harmonix Worm phaser/mod-wah/tremolo
  • Visual Sound H2O Liquid Chorus & Echo (v1.5)
  • Danelectro Fish & Chips EQ
  • custom fuzz pedal....
  • Jim Dunlop 535Q wah-wah pedal (in the mail)
  • Boss DD-20 stereo delay
  • Boss CS-2 Compressor/sustain (don't really use it)



Joeytpg":3462p3f8 said:
two questions:

1) in what would I need to invest to make the pedals "midi switchable" ?

A MIDI loop switcher and footcontroller unit. I have a DMC GCX Audio Switcher, where each pedal is connected in a dedicated loop. MIDI messages trigger the loops on and of to either route the signal through the pedal, or bypass it. I can any combination of pedals at a time, but limited to their order. I also have a Sound Sculpture Switchblade that has a lot more features (change the pedal order, parallel routing, gain/vol control on any loop), but I busted the fuse :doh: .
I have a Roland FC-300 MIDI footcontroller.

Other units are the DMC Ground Control Pro, Rocktron All-Access and that little 4-input box, Rocktron Patchbay & Patchmate, damn I cannot remember the rest sorry.



Joeytpg":3462p3f8 said:
2) for the pedals that need to go through the loop, how can I set those up from the pedalboard?

Either put those pedals on top of your amp and use a separate switching system for them (but triggered from a central MIDI controller), or use long cables to route the fx loop signal to the pedalboard (known as the 4 Cable Method).
 
marked for posting up a picture later after i take some. havnt seen any one of my pedals in this thread so theyre either gonna go over like meth in a trailer park or shitting yourself in church. :rock:
 
Built mine from wood at home depot and painted it black. Wires are hidden underneath. Worked out pretty good.

111_1117.jpg
 
Joeytpg":17z1afd3 said:
I'm getting more and more interested in building my own pedalboard with a nice selection of pedals..... show me yours so I can have a good example of how to build a nice looking/optimal functioning pedalboard.


two questions:

1) in what would I need to invest to make the pedals "midi switchable" ?

2) for the pedals that need to go through the loop, how can I set those up from the pedalboard?

PM me.... I've been working on this for 2 months and have got all the options and answers, it's just whether or not you want all the options. Seriously, there's a mess to learn about this and I don't want to regale the general public with a small year's worth of a read.

V.
 
Death by Uberschall":10qgtw4u said:
LoudOne":10qgtw4u said:
Death by Uberschall":10qgtw4u said:

That is SICK!!! :thumbsup: Did Rooster wire it up for you?
I did it myself, layout and wiring. :thumbsup:

DBU!! You're killing me man....!! EVERY TIME I SEE THAT BOARD... I get twitchy! A little muscle strain pulls at me! I get shaky!

Damn you!! I was SO SO SO close to just routing my 9 FX in a serial chain, was JUST ABOUT TO DO THIS....and then YOU come along AGAIN with pics of that DAMN FINE BOARD and just THROW me off....AGAIN!! :doh: :doh:

You used George L's...?
When wiring the TT board, you drilling through the hard top??
When getting the TT board, is it preloaded with 1/4 jacks and power sockets??

Lemme know. PM me if need be, but lemme know. And ya ya ya, I've looked at the WOBO and you're really pissing me off with it.... It's perfect, I just don't want to complicate the whole infront versus loop thing, but here we go AGAIN thanks to YOU and YOUR PICTURES!!!!!!!
:bash: V.
 
Ventura":135r8xld said:
Death by Uberschall":135r8xld said:
LoudOne":135r8xld said:
Death by Uberschall":135r8xld said:

That is SICK!!! :thumbsup: Did Rooster wire it up for you?
I did it myself, layout and wiring. :thumbsup:

DBU!! You're killing me man....!! EVERY TIME I SEE THAT BOARD... I get twitchy! A little muscle strain pulls at me! I get shaky!

Damn you!! I was SO SO SO close to just routing my 9 FX in a serial chain, was JUST ABOUT TO DO THIS....and then YOU come along AGAIN with pics of that DAMN FINE BOARD and just THROW me off....AGAIN!! :doh: :doh:

You used George L's...?
When wiring the TT board, you drilling through the hard top??
When getting the TT board, is it preloaded with 1/4 jacks and power sockets??

Lemme know. PM me if need be, but lemme know. And ya ya ya, I've looked at the WOBO and you're really pissing me off with it.... It's perfect, I just don't want to complicate the whole infront versus loop thing, but here we go AGAIN thanks to YOU and YOUR PICTURES!!!!!!!
:bash: V.
Sorry for the twitch!! But great tone with exceptional flexibility cures that! :lol: :LOL:

All guitar cable are George L's .125 on the board itself. The cables going to and from the amp are George L's .250 cables.

I just drilled through the top with a drill bit big enough for the guitar cables and power wires to feed through.

Trailer Trash installed the Nuetrik jacks and the male power connector with works with any normal 3-prong extension cord.

It was a lot of work, but well worth it. I have an analog signal path with one stomp control of my effects and amp channel/loop switching.
 
DBU.... Aside from being the thorn in my side :D what are you using for power supply under tha board?

Secondly, drill bit - wide enough for the cable with ends? Or without? Why the difference in gauge between the 2 George L's? Just wondering... Oh ya, and last question, are the George L's reliable in their "solderless" state??

Peace,
V.
 
Ventura":1ox2hevw said:
DBU.... Aside from being the thorn in my side :D what are you using for power supply under tha board?

Secondly, drill bit - wide enough for the cable with ends? Or without? Why the difference in gauge between the 2 George L's? Just wondering... Oh ya, and last question, are the George L's reliable in their "solderless" state??

Peace,
V.
One PP2+ powering everything including the WOBO, except for the Reverbulator which has a 24v power supply. Works great, even with all my pedals being turned on all the time.

Cables with no ends. Ends attached post insertion. Same thing with the power feeds.

There is no difference between the two different size George L's cables except for the casing thickness. Internally they are the same. So I went with the thinner casing cable for the board internals/routing and used the heavier casing for cables that will be kicked around, stepped on or plugged/unplugged regularly.

I like the new cap style connectors much better than the old screw style ends. Have not had a problem with them yet.
 
That WOBO controller looks nice, checked out their site. It's pretty tempting, as I'd prefer to not go midi (with my current setup.)
 
This is my old pedalboard but it really sounded great with the XTC.
pictures163-1.jpg
 
Death by Uberschall":tsi4dzaz said:
Ventura":tsi4dzaz said:
DBU.... Aside from being the thorn in my side :D what are you using for power supply under tha board?

Secondly, drill bit - wide enough for the cable with ends? Or without? Why the difference in gauge between the 2 George L's? Just wondering... Oh ya, and last question, are the George L's reliable in their "solderless" state??

Peace,
V.


I like the new cap style connectors much better than the old screw style ends. Have not had a problem with them yet.

Are these George L's as well?? I was on their site just yesterday and only saw the screw style caps. I'm going for 90 degree angle connections except for the front (closest to audience) side, which will be straight through. I'm glad to know there's been no connection issues with these - Bob Bradshaw seems to think solderless is a bad choice, but everyone I've spoken with says for the most part, the George L's are dandy.

Peace,
V.
 
Ventura":14a2bbuz said:
Death by Uberschall":14a2bbuz said:
Ventura":14a2bbuz said:
DBU.... Aside from being the thorn in my side :D what are you using for power supply under tha board?

Secondly, drill bit - wide enough for the cable with ends? Or without? Why the difference in gauge between the 2 George L's? Just wondering... Oh ya, and last question, are the George L's reliable in their "solderless" state??

Peace,
V.


I like the new cap style connectors much better than the old screw style ends. Have not had a problem with them yet.

Are these George L's as well?? I was on their site just yesterday and only saw the screw style caps. I'm going for 90 degree angle connections except for the front (closest to audience) side, which will be straight through. I'm glad to know there's been no connection issues with these - Bob Bradshaw seems to think solderless is a bad choice, but everyone I've spoken with says for the most part, the George L's are dandy.

Peace,
V.
The ones I used are the 90 deg ones on their site with the big screw top. Their old design had a small set screw on the side to lock the cable in place.

http://www.georgelsstore.com/faq.html

http://www.georgelsstore.com/custom.html
 
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