CrazyNutz
Well-known member
Thinking the same thing.
Plan calls for a Fender Princeton type PT.
Will be overkill because it's just a preamp (no power tubes)
Well, and it'll be way high because the absence of the power tube load.
Thinking the same thing.
Plan calls for a Fender Princeton type PT.
Will be overkill because it's just a preamp (no power tubes)
Since he's only doing the preamp I think the target voltage would be 375ish volts since thats what is at V3 on the SLOLooking at those AnTek's you need a 350v model. That way you get 490v after full bridge rectification.
That's what I'm seeing on the schematic.Since he's only doing the preamp I think the target voltage would be 375ish volts since thats what is at V3 on the SLO
Since he's only doing the preamp I think the target voltage would be 375ish volts since thats what is at V3 on the SLO
Can't I use a voltage multiplier circuit with the Antek 200V ?
Yeah, I've built them with, and without the FX Loop. It does sound slightly different. I'd say more classic/open without the FX loop, and more modern with.
I will say this, use the orange drop polypropylene caps (the 400v are fine), and the vishay metal film resistors. I've used others, and they don't sound right.
BTW I have a new O'netics power transformer for 100w collecting dust if you're interested.
Are D.C. heaters the key to getting the noise floor down in this circuit ?I would use metalised polyester caps (MKT), not polypropylene. I've done it with both and the original MKTs Soldano uses sound better IMO
Are D.C. heaters the key to getting the noise floor down in this circuit ?
Or are there other tricks.. using NOS 12AX7's etc
When you say "higher-wattage" resistors, you mean higher than called for in the schematic ?I used regular ol' AC heaters in my builds and there was no noise. I did elevate the heaters in one build to reduce stress on the preamp tubes. But I didn't notice any benefit to noise (but there wasn't any to begin with). The key to low noise is using higher wattage, metal-film resistors and good lead dress. DC heaters certainly do lower the noise floor but it's not always needed.
Noise can come from external sources too. A lot of people spend time chasing gremlins when they're actually coming from dirty power or EMI.
When you say "higher-wattage" resistors, you mean higher than called for in the schematic ?
Do you sub the ones from the C3amps kit and use higher quality (or different) components ?1 watt is good. The specific ones Soldano normally uses are good. I've also had good luck with PRP and Beyschlag. But I don't think either of those will fit on a typical SLO PCB.
Are D.C. heaters the key to getting the noise floor down in this circuit ?
I would use metalised polyester caps (MKT), not polypropylene. I've done it with both and the original MKTs Soldano uses sound better IMO
The ones that come from C3 are exactly what the original amp comes with.Do you sub the ones from the C3amps kit and use higher quality (or different) components ?
Do you sub the ones from the C3amps kit and use higher quality (or different) components ?
The ones that come from C3 are exactly what the original amp comes with.
I've use metalized polyester film caps in this (mallory 150's) and absolutely hated it.
Which ones did you use, seems like maybe the orange drop polyesters could have been the original old schools. But those are film/foil, not metalized film.
NO. If you find the regular old AC heaters induce too much noise then just elevate the heaters with DC as with the methods already discussed. With four gain stages you can still have some hiss regardless.Are D.C. heaters the key to getting the noise floor down in this circuit ?
Or are there other tricks.. using NOS 12AX7's etc
I think Friedman uses DC heaters and his amps still have that high gain hiss which is inherent to most high gainer amps IMHO.