Soldering Switchcraft 228 Jacks...

Also, if any of you guys know where the heck I can get Mogami cable by the foot, please let me know. I posted this on another thread, but got no response. I want to order it right away so I can have it by the weekend. Thanks, Danny :)
 
Kiteboarder":dst7c8oy said:
Also, if any of you guys know where the heck I can get Mogami cable by the foot, please let me know. I posted this on another thread, but got no response. I want to order it right away so I can have it by the weekend. Thanks, Danny :)
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Got mine here. Good pricing too.

http://www.redco.com/
 
+1 on Redco.com. I get all my stuff there. I also use the WBT Silver Solder. I actually went back behind my rig tonight and un-screwed random connectors on audio and speaker cables I made last week and have to say I was happy with the way the joints look. All that I checked were nice shiny silver joints.

Maybe I'll post a few pics for Casey to check out.

Dave
 
If you use Redco I would suggest ordering as much of your stuff, at one time, as possible. Everytime I order from them it's $10-$11 for shipping plus tax. So when I realize I need another 20 feet of some cable and 6 more connectors, I punch myself in the balls.
 
dfrattaroli":2zv4kc6i said:
If you use Redco I would suggest ordering as much of your stuff, at one time, as possible. Everytime I order from them it's $10-$11 for shipping plus tax. So when I realize I need another 20 feet of some cable and 6 more connectors, I punch myself in the balls.
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Hahahaha! Same here! Except for the punching myself in the balls part. I just say "there's another $11 from the dwindling bank account I'll never see again" and then :cry:
 
We all know Nick just like fisting himself in the bunghole instead of punching himself in the ballz ;)

Eric
 
aeroic":1azjzg1x said:
Dude.. I can handle more than a 1/4" cable! :lol: :LOL:
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20081010_obama_stunned_look.jpg
 
A couple things that also help in soldering to big metal surfaces. Get some emery cloth sandpaper and scuff up the surface where your going to solder too. Center mount and the housing both. This allows less heat and more little areas for the solder to bond to.

Heat the surface up of what your going to attach to, be that the center pin or the housing for the shielding. Once it is hot enough apply solder to those surfaces first before trying to attach the wire.

Now tin both leads of your cable by heating them up a tad and applying solder to the leads. Now you have a good solder spot on the part and the cables. It will take a heck of a lot less heat to bond these two tinned parts together now as all you need to do if barely get the solder melting on the part with the wire held in place and they will flow together quick and neatly.

No more melted wire shielding or anything if you do it this way. Good luck and remember soldering is like welding it is and art and a littel practice on old broken parts will have you a pro in no time. :rock: :rock:
 
Just noticed the talk about cold solder joints. You can't just go by the color of the solder joing itself. The pics above show clearly that the solder is balled up and not in a nice cone to a point shape as well as the wire not laying down on the part. The angle the bare wire is laying clearly shows the tip of the wire is on the part and the back end is quite a ways away from the part. This shows the wire moved before the solder hardened. That center wire should be laying flat heading straight out to the back of the plug. Not heading up towards the area where the top cap will be screwed on.

The wire moving helps cause the discoloration in the final joint. It doesn't take very much movement to cause this. I use little alligator clips to hold the wire in place by the shielding and I will blow on the solder joint right after it is made to harden it quicker. Never have any problems since going this route.

So look for discoloration, Balling of the solder, and the wire being tilted in at the part rather than parallel to the part as signs you have a cold joint going.

This picture has been commented on about the shielding having too much solder on it but that is a result from what I can tell of trying to solder to the case without it being tinned.

Solder flows to the hottest part and without getting a good solid tinning first on the part the wire is merely heating up way faster that the part and all the solder flows to the wire. It will never work without a good tinned joint on the part first.

Hope all this helps everyone.
 
Not to discount anything that's being said but I've read in several places that you should NOT blow on the solder to help it dry faster.
 
dfrattaroli":10pz0wwl said:
Not to discount anything that's being said but I've read in several places that you should NOT blow on the solder to help it dry faster.
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Really? Why? Man... I gotta re-learn to do this. I'm humbled!

I blew 'till I was blue in the face!
 
Kiteboarder":3cqvrj0j said:
dfrattaroli":3cqvrj0j said:
Not to discount anything that's being said but I've read in several places that you should NOT blow on the solder to help it dry faster.
Click to expand...

Really? Why? Man... I gotta re-learn to do this. I'm humbled!

I blew 'till I was blue in the face!
Click to expand...

If I recall correctly, blowing the solder can cause the solder to move while it's drying. It's the same as if the part moved while it was drying. In my experience over the last couple of weekends, it only takes 3-5 seconds for the solder to cool on it's own. It's nothing. But when you're soldering, 3-5 seconds feels like an eternity. Bottom line: Once the solder flows, remove the iron and hold still till it's hard.
 
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