Soldering Switchcraft 228 Jacks...

dfrattaroli":33skf68b said:
Kiteboarder":33skf68b said:
dfrattaroli":33skf68b said:
But when you're soldering, 3-5 seconds feels like an eternity. Bottom line: Once the solder flows, remove the iron and hold still till it's hard.
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This an be so taken out of context by someone (like me) with a "dirty mind!" Oh, sorry...thread derailment!!! Back to your previously scheduled programming! :lol: :LOL:
 
I just read this on the REDCO site on the Mogami instrument cable page:

(Quote) Most musical instrument sound pick-ups such as those in electric guitars are comprised of high impedance circuits driven by voltage, in other words by very small electrical current flow. Therefore, so-called MICROPHONICS (noise) becomes a critical problem. (Microphonics means noise that is generated when the cable is moved and or tapped when the cabling circuit is a high impedance link.) Guitar cables must be counter-measured against this, so, a conductive PVC layer is placed under the shield conductor in most cases even though it may have a bad affect on audio sound quality.

Therefore, the conductive PVC (black carbon PVC) layer must be removed together with the shielding conductor when wiring, otherwise we receive a strange claim that the cable is shorting. (Unquote)

Can anybody tell me what the heck they mean in the last paragraph. What do I have to remove from the cable? -D
 
Kiteboarder":p0a6mkdy said:
I just read this on the REDCO site on the Mogami instrument cable page:

(Quote) Most musical instrument sound pick-ups such as those in electric guitars are comprised of high impedance circuits driven by voltage, in other words by very small electrical current flow. Therefore, so-called MICROPHONICS (noise) becomes a critical problem. (Microphonics means noise that is generated when the cable is moved and or tapped when the cabling circuit is a high impedance link.) Guitar cables must be counter-measured against this, so, a conductive PVC layer is placed under the shield conductor in most cases even though it may have a bad affect on audio sound quality.

Therefore, the conductive PVC (black carbon PVC) layer must be removed together with the shielding conductor when wiring, otherwise we receive a strange claim that the cable is shorting. (Unquote)

Can anybody tell me what the heck they mean in the last paragraph. What do I have to remove from the cable? -D
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when you unwrap the sheild, there's a black PVC layer, over top of a clear on, which is overtop the sheild.

unwrap the shield, strip the black right back, and then strip 1/8" of an inch off the clear to show the conductor
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basically, strip it exactly like the picture shows it.. i usually strip the PVC right off.
 
Same goes for the Canare stuff too...

The first cables I made, I DIDN'T strip it off, and the tone was godawful. Super muddy...
 
dfrattaroli":28g2m0jb said:
I believe I already pointed this out. You nut-sacks need to work on your reading comp. :D :lol: :LOL:
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Well, I read it. But I didn't get it... Because on the George L stuff, you can barely see it. After seeing the Mogami photo, it makes sense.

I'm sitting here peeling away on a George L cable. I can see there is a tiny clear sleeve inside the black inner insulation. But man! That clear sleeve is super-thin. I can't take the black off, without having the clear come out with it. I'm sure with the Mogami cable it'll be easier to do. I can see why the George L cable is not solder-friendly!

I need a quick crash course on naming.

Can someone answer the with the names of each of these cable parts below? Let's use that Mogami cable photo as an example...

1. The thick outermost layers is called:
2. The copper colored metal stuff that follows is called:
3. The following black insulation is called:
4. The clear stuff right before the final bit of metal is:
5. The inner-most conductor is:

Please. Getting the names right for each of there will help me (us) make make sense of it all. Thanks -Danny
 
Kiteboarder":1kae7o81 said:
Can someone answer the with the names of each of these cable parts below? Let's use that Mogami cable photo as an example...

1. The thick outermost layers is called: jacket
2. The copper colored metal stuff that follows is called: shield/drain
3. The following black insulation is called: PVC subshield
4. The clear stuff right before the final bit of metal is: insulation
5. The inner-most conductor is: conductor

Please. Getting the names right for each of there will help me (us) make make sense of it all. Thanks -Danny
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sorry i've been super busy with my baby, and a few other rigs, including my own.. i'm going to take pics.. i promise, someone needs to tell me what day of the week has 30 hours though
 
Casey Hanson":39pffuk3 said:
sorry i've been super busy with my baby, and a few other rigs, including my own.. i'm going to take pics.. i promise, someone needs to tell me what day of the week has 30 hours though
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I totally agree!
 
The guy who sold me the Swithcraft Jacks just emailed me some tip on soldering them. I found them very useful so I'm posting them here. It mentions some of the things you guys have mentioned already, but even more...

The best way to do this is…

1. Sand a spot on the body of the plug, so it has the coating rubbed off. Use a high aluminum oxide sandpaper or dremel
2. Put some solder paste on the spot you sanded, heat until melted
3. Use a high power iron, melt the solder on the body, and let cool down slightly
4. Strip the wire, like when making a normal cable, and melt just the glob, and place the wire into the melted glob
5. Keep the glob melted until solder starts to wick up the wire
6. Voila’, you have a good ground connection


This takes a little longer, but produces a great connection.
 
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