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Cap217
Active member
Have you swapped the studs? Was it difficult? Im worried about stripped post holes after I take the old ones out and then the new ones wont stay in.
Have you swapped the studs? Was it difficult? Im worried about stripped post holes after I take the old ones out and then the new ones wont stay in.
Samhain
Banned
Well-known member
Yeah but a German Floyd is $300 bucks.
After disassembly, big brass install/re-assembly & tighten to spec's ive never had one problem.
And i have German Floyds/Schaller Tremeisters/Korean & new Asian Floyd 1000's.
You can definitely over think this stuff.
I put a dab of threadlock on the 3 allen heads that hold the block to the baseplate for good measure.
Not alot, just a dab.
FWIW if i was gonna spend $300 bucks id get this :
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3633787722...j0PZy1H1rKBcU%3D|clp:2334524|tkp:BFBMrK7X_5Zf
But once you start missing & matching/upgrades with budget priced guitars you run the risk of tolerances & clearance issues.
The original trem is going to be paired to your guitars fretboard radius. If you change trems completely the new trem might not be the same radius.
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PBGas
Well-known member
Yes! I swapped out the 1000 studs and trem for the new OFR trem and studs. No issues and works perfectly!
The strange thing with this guitar is that the shim that came on the bottom wasn't there! Being that it is a 10in radius on the board, I wondered why it was a bit flatter in the middle area. I did some work on a friends who had the same model and his had the shim from the factory. They must have missed it on mine. LOL.
I had some of the allparts shims that go under each saddle and used them under the 2,3,4,5 saddles and all was perfect!
napalmdeath
Well-known member
True. A German Floyd will be shimmed to 10" radius, vs. unshimmed 1000 being 12", I believe.
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cragginshred
Well-known member
The German ones I have used have very non articulate fine tuners. The FU tone ones are the best if you want to upgrade. I have had great luck with them, or better yet. Baby Floyd with no fine tuners and locking tuners on the head stock.
Samhain
Banned
Well-known member
The number on the block IE : 32 or 37mm ect refer to the length of the block which is important to keep the same as the block number your guitar came with for the block to clear the route in the rear trem cavity.
If the new block is too long/too short or not the same it won't work.
If the new block is too long/too short or not the same it won't work.
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Racerxrated
Well-known member
I played hundreds of gigs with my 08-09 Charvels with 1000s and never had an issue. That said, I have switched them out to OFRs from the 80s just for the fun of it. No tonal difference, slight feel improvement but really completely unnecessary for performance…the 1000s are just fine.
But like others I too have OCD 123.
But like others I too have OCD 123.
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mcgyver
Member
Changing it to the german orignal. Makes all the difference in the world from the 1000. Tuning stability, overall feel. And tunablity of the fine tuners.
Do it, you won't be sorry.
Do it, you won't be sorry.
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SoooRad
Well-known member
I swapped a 2010 Charvel Socal (Japan) from the 1000 series to an OFR shortly after taking delivery of it back then. I plan on ripping that out shortly in favour of a Gotoh.
I have found I much prefer the Gotoh.
I have found I much prefer the Gotoh.
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Cap217
Active member
For those that swapped from 1000 to Original, how did you take the insert out of the body and what did you use to install the new? And did you have issues with the routing of the wood going back in?
Seems that an upside down screw in the inset and tightening a different one into it is the easiest way to remove.
Seems that an upside down screw in the inset and tightening a different one into it is the easiest way to remove.
Chubtone
Well-known member
There seems to be some confusion on the naming of parts in this thread between posts, studs and inserts. What I think everyone is trying to say is leave the threaded pieces inside the guitar body. Don't mess with those. Unscrew the trem posts when you take the old 1000 off the guitar and just put the new trem posts into the old body inserts and install the new Floyd. In my picture, leave the black pieces in the guitar and replace the pieces shown in chrome.
Attachments
Samhain
Banned
Well-known member
Winnar.
scottosan
Well-known member
Which is probably negligible from an strength standpoint. There’s some type of saying that any jackass can build table to support 1000lbs, but it take an engineer to build a table that can only support 1000lbs.
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Cap217
Active member
To close this out, I called Floyd Rose and discussed with them. I was told that they do not recommend reusing the inserts (pieces in the body) because threads may or may not match. This can cause an issue. He said because the cheaper versions were made in different countries over the years and the specs changed slightly per factory.
I then told him this is a brand new Kramer and he said that I should be fine and I could reuse the pieces in the body. He said if they dont screw in perfectly, then swap them.
The original series inserts (pieces in the body) are harder steel and higher quality.
There is an issue of removing the old ones but when trying to insert the new ones they must be straight and the wood may have expanded or contracted and the new ones might not go in. Its best to use a drill press to push in straight vs a rubber mallet. And you want a little push back while inserting to know they are tight. But the old ones may have enlarged the hole too much and if thats the case you need to fill and redrill.
Bascially, you dont know what you are going to get into once you are in there. But he was more cautious on bad installs or old units vs new stuff. People did a lot of crazy things to install Floyd Roses in the past.
I then told him this is a brand new Kramer and he said that I should be fine and I could reuse the pieces in the body. He said if they dont screw in perfectly, then swap them.
The original series inserts (pieces in the body) are harder steel and higher quality.
There is an issue of removing the old ones but when trying to insert the new ones they must be straight and the wood may have expanded or contracted and the new ones might not go in. Its best to use a drill press to push in straight vs a rubber mallet. And you want a little push back while inserting to know they are tight. But the old ones may have enlarged the hole too much and if thats the case you need to fill and redrill.
Bascially, you dont know what you are going to get into once you are in there. But he was more cautious on bad installs or old units vs new stuff. People did a lot of crazy things to install Floyd Roses in the past.
psychodave
Well-known member
Yeah, but if your Floyd is floating and in a position you like, the OFR bridge will now be set higher up and change the feel of the guitar. Just food for thought.Which is probably negligible from an strength standpoint. There’s some type of saying that any jackass can build table to support 1000lbs, but it take an engineer to build a table that can only support 1000lbs.
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Cap217
Active member
Update
I started on the first guitar to swap floyds from a 1000 to an original. I bought a brass block for the original as well. It came with the R2 nut to replace as its higher quality but the holes dont line up with the current mounting holes. So I cant use the nut. The quality difference is very large between the 2 systems. I am waiting on a humbucker to install before I get it back together. The old body inserts do accept the new studs so I am going to use it that way.
While I was waiting I started on guitar 2. I was swapping a 1000 series for an original 1984. But I didnt get far. When I opened it up I realized that the 1984 comes with wood screws vs inserts and studs. But its hard to find any in stock originals so I ordered the studs from sweetwater and will just use them and keep the 1984. So be aware that the 1984 limited edition doesnt come with studs and inserts.
I started on the first guitar to swap floyds from a 1000 to an original. I bought a brass block for the original as well. It came with the R2 nut to replace as its higher quality but the holes dont line up with the current mounting holes. So I cant use the nut. The quality difference is very large between the 2 systems. I am waiting on a humbucker to install before I get it back together. The old body inserts do accept the new studs so I am going to use it that way.
While I was waiting I started on guitar 2. I was swapping a 1000 series for an original 1984. But I didnt get far. When I opened it up I realized that the 1984 comes with wood screws vs inserts and studs. But its hard to find any in stock originals so I ordered the studs from sweetwater and will just use them and keep the 1984. So be aware that the 1984 limited edition doesnt come with studs and inserts.
Samhain
Banned
Well-known member
Personally i'd leave the old nut but if you insist on swapping id have a Luthier do it. Easy fix for them.
Experience matters easy to mess those up DIY.
Experience matters easy to mess those up DIY.
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Cap217
Active member
I am but its interesting that they are both R2 but the mounting holes dont line up. So these are not replaceable/swappable.
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SoooRad
Well-known member
I do believe on the description for the 1984 Floyd at any retailer it is stated that it comes with the woodscrew posts as opposed to the studs & inserts.
As it is trying to be "era correct"
Samhain
Banned
Well-known member
Well you don't wanna be drilling extra holes in the neck and for what ?
What is there to gain ?
And how you gonna measure any gains ? w/a "Floyd meter" ?
Over thinking something til it becomes harmful is OCD.
If it ain't broke don't fix it.
What is there to gain ?
And how you gonna measure any gains ? w/a "Floyd meter" ?
Over thinking something til it becomes harmful is OCD.
If it ain't broke don't fix it.