Soldering Switchcraft 228 Jacks...

Kiteboarder

Kiteboarder

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I making patch cables using George L cabling and Switchcraft 228 jacks. I'm searching the net trying to find instructions on soldering these (they are different than other plugs I've soldered.)

Any links you guys know of? :confused:

-Danny
 
Kiteboarder":1mqdtqfe said:
I making patch cables using George L cabling and Switchcraft 228 jacks. I'm searching the net trying to find instructions on soldering these (they are different than other plugs I've soldered.)

Any links you guys know of? :confused:

-Danny
Click to expand...

pics? :confused:
 
there's a tab inside, that for the tip.. you solder the sleeve of the cable directly to the chassis.. horribly designed plug in my opinion, you'll need a good iron to get the plug hot enough for the solder to stick
 
+1.

Trying to solder to the body of the plug with anything less than 40W pencil point tip soldering iron has resulted in bad results for me.

40W pencil point soldering iron from radio shack. $8 bucks. Is working like a charm so far on all my cables.
 
Here's a pic...

Notice that the center cable is easily soldered. This was after an attempt to solder the outer cable so it's dirty already. But notice, how the George L cable has started to melt already. If I apply enough heat to be able to solder to the body, as soon as I attach the cable, the heat travels into the cable and melts the insulation.

I tried heat sinks, and all sorts of crap to no avail. Bottom line is, I can seem to use Gearge Ls with these plugs. If you look at the original thread I have about these plugs, I mention I'm sticking with Planet Waves cable for this job instead.

-Danny

switchcraft_228.jpg
 
Kiteboarder":uftri7e8 said:
Here's a pic...

Notice that the center cable is easily soldered. This was after an attempt to solder the outer cable so it's dirty already. But notice, how the George L cable has started to melt already. If I apply enough heat to be able to solder to the body, as soon as I attach the cable, the heat travels into the cable and melts the insulation.

I tried heat sinks, and all sorts of crap to no avail. Bottom line is, I can seem to use Gearge Ls with these plugs. If you look at the original thread I have about these plugs, I mention I'm sticking with Planet Waves cable for this job instead.

-Danny

switchcraft_228.jpg
Click to expand...


that tip is a cold solder joint as well..

i use knock off 228's and never melt the sheild around gl's or evidence monorail, or mogami..

you have WAY to much solder on the shield of the gl's for one..

try soldering the sheild first, then the tip but heat up the jack itself and try to get solder to flow freely just as a test.. you're just not used to working with plugs like this..
 
heat the jack and get a solder point on it then tin the + and - on the cable. It should only take a few seconds to solder the wire to the jack. tinning the wires and jack separately will also result in using less solder.
 
George L is a fine cable, but the insulation does start to melt pretty fast.

I can only use them with the solderless plugs.
 
gdgross":1mun1rk5 said:
George L is a fine cable, but the insulation does start to melt pretty fast.

I can only use them with the solderless plugs.
Click to expand...



hrmm.. i've never had this problem.. maybe i'll take a couple pictures tonite.
 
I've had some older George L's with clear plastic insulation layer, and some new Goerge L's with black plastic insulation later. The clear didn't melt, and the black did. very strange.
 
I wish there were more "DIY" cable threads like this. I just got done making my cables and it definitely took me a couple of tries early on to get it right. I used Neutrik NP2C straights and rights. I even used a cheaper Chinese made Neutrik. I used 2 soldering irons: A pencil tip Radio Shack for the tips and a chisel tipped Ungar 7760 for heating up the back of the surface where the shields were soldered. I'd then test for continuity with my MM and also would plug my guitar into my Roland Cube to make sure.

That Switchcraft jack looks like a pain for the reasons you've already posted.
 
Casey, how can you tell it's a "cold" joint just by looking at it?

I know an ideal solder joint is 100% shiny, but I've done lots of soldering, and done lots of joints that I've done everything 100% properly, used a clean tip soldering iron, good solder, etc, and still got a joint that's not "shiny"... and all of them have held up well and sounded totally fine.

But, am i actually doing it wrong, if it's not really shiny?
 
RockStarNick":37uel7i4 said:
Casey, how can you tell it's a "cold" joint just by looking at it?
Click to expand...

The only way you can tell from looking at is if it's shiny or dull. I'm with you Nick. I've done dull solder joints and was told to fix them. So I did. I think the issue with a cold joint is that it may function for a while and than stop working. I had a TV back when NEC was still making them. After watching it for an hour, it would start to make intermittent buzzing sounds. It was colder solder joint that would "act up" after it got warm from being on for a while. Other than that, it worked. Cold joints are just weird potential problems you want to avoid.

Dave
 
I just realized something Kiteboarder. You still have the black outer jacket on the conductor. You need to remove that. There is a white or white-ish clear jacket on the conductor. The black one melts WAY easy.
 
RockStarNick":lre8ipr3 said:
Casey, how can you tell it's a "cold" joint just by looking at it?

I know an ideal solder joint is 100% shiny, but I've done lots of soldering, and done lots of joints that I've done everything 100% properly, used a clean tip soldering iron, good solder, etc, and still got a joint that's not "shiny"... and all of them have held up well and sounded totally fine.

But, am i actually doing it wrong, if it's not really shiny?
Click to expand...

cold solders are about heat.. or if the cable moves while the solder is cooling.
you could be fine with them, but cold solders on cables without good strain relief will kill you no doubt.

if i get a chance tonite i'll take some pics of me soldering.. what do you guys want to see?

1/4" audio straight -> 1/4" right angle?
2.1mm DC power plugs?
Midi cables?
1/4" female jacks?
Circuit board?
 
That would be awesome... any of those would work, as long as it's a good pic of the solder joint.

I should rephrase my previous post... I'm not saying that my solder joints are grey, by any means. But some are not that super-shiny reflective chrome silver look that I know is idea.

Is there such thing as a "warm" solder joint? :lol: :LOL: Cuz I think that's what I've done on more than a few occasions.
 
Casey Hanson":39x1ydyl said:
what do you guys want to see?

1/4" audio straight -> 1/4" right angle?
2.1mm DC power plugs?
Midi cables?
1/4" female jacks?
Circuit board?
Click to expand...

Um, yes. ;)

I think 1/4" connectors would be cool. Straight and RA. I think I've got it down but I can always learn from someone who is better at it than I am.

Dave
 
Hey Casey... Looking forward to seeing the pics... I've got a few days until I resume this soldering deal. I want to get the Mogami cable first. I'm done with the George L stuff for soldering.

I also bought a few supplies at Fry's the other day in order to make the job easier...

Such as a better cable stripper, cutters, etc.

Any recommendations on solder to use. Lead-free? Silver?
 
Kiteboarder":386e25jr said:
If you can get a hold of, or have, Switchcraft 228s, I'd love to see you solder those!
Click to expand...

i use wbt silver solder, its nice, but expensive.

i have knock off 228's. i'm rebuilding my pedalboard so i'll have a few to do.
 
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