Purpletele":t6tgb3i9 said:CrazyNutz":t6tgb3i9 said:Purpletele":t6tgb3i9 said:CrazyNutz":t6tgb3i9 said:Head cab is in. Needs some face plates now!
I have had the most challenging issues trying to create a faceplate after the fact.
Hopefully there is a template or standard spacing to aid the reproduction.
Curious how you go about it.
BV
Normally I would not do it this way. But the chassis is made by valvestorm, and they are the ones making the faceplates too, so they are able to make sure everything lines up perfectly.
It's pretty awesome because all i did was take an image of the chassis and label the holes I'm using, Robert took it from there.
That is quite an impressive build.
There is a lot going on in that amp. Lately I have really been appreciating how reasonable most amps are cost wise when you realize how much time goes into building a quality amp.
Just wiring up a MV can take you 2 hours to get the parts ready with shielded wire and such.
I am GASSing for the 50 watt transformer set for sale, but after building about 10 amps the other half of me wants to buy a nice amp and then just play.
ChurchHill":2f40g3ip said:Faceplates look like they were worth the wait. It's really starting to take shape! Very nice work, too!!
harddriver":30axz5xz said:I'm interested in what you will think of the new Synergy Mustard caps. According to Dave Friedman it is the closest they have ever gotten to replicating the tone and characteristics of original Mustard caps.
Bill Landry started installing original Mustard caps in his amps, he must have found a stash somewhere, they seem to make his G3 really aggressive sounding. I wondered why he used NOS if the Synergies are just as good.
While I haven't heard the outcome (yet...), I think that's a great philosophy to have. Many times, the trick is to find things that work together, then make them work well together, and worry about the brands later. Not always, but some times... experimentation like this is always worth it in my book.CrazyNutz":3hwm0nnw said:Interestingly, I've played with a mix of Synergy, and Mallory 150's in the same amp. I really liked the outcome.
technomancer":25233mba said:Looks great! Is the Tight switch to change the tap for the NFB or is that elsewhere and that switch is changing the values on the Thump?
Need to finalize what controls I'm going with for optional switches and NFB and email Robert to get some faceplates ordered... should probably get a thread up too even though I suspect progress will be REALLY slow lol
JTyson":3tl4jpx0 said:Faceplates turned out fantastic!
looking forward to clips
CrazyNutz":350gr4te said:technomancer":350gr4te said:Looks great! Is the Tight switch to change the tap for the NFB or is that elsewhere and that switch is changing the values on the Thump?
Need to finalize what controls I'm going with for optional switches and NFB and email Robert to get some faceplates ordered... should probably get a thread up too even though I suspect progress will be REALLY slow lol
The tight switch adds the 2n2 cap to the 4n7 on the thump/depth like the JJ, and Slax have. I call it tight because that's what it sounds like (to me) when you add that cap, it tightens up the low end.
The NFB switch is on the back, it switches between 16ohm, and 4ohm taps.
ChurchHill":2f9hw0t0 said:CrazyNutz":2f9hw0t0 said:Many times, the trick is to find things that work together, then make them work well together, and worry about the brands later. Not always, but some times... experimentation like this is always worth it in my book.
Faceplates look great!CrazyNutz":exhilq79 said:technomancer":exhilq79 said:Looks great! Is the Tight switch to change the tap for the NFB or is that elsewhere and that switch is changing the values on the Thump?
Need to finalize what controls I'm going with for optional switches and NFB and email Robert to get some faceplates ordered... should probably get a thread up too even though I suspect progress will be REALLY slow lol
The tight switch adds the 2n2 cap to the 4n7 on the thump/depth like the JJ, and Slax have. I call it tight because that's what it sounds like (to me) when you add that cap, it tightens up the low end.
The NFB switch is on the back, it switches between 16ohm, and 4ohm taps.
SpiderWars":256a077h said:Faceplates look great!CrazyNutz":256a077h said:technomancer":256a077h said:Looks great! Is the Tight switch to change the tap for the NFB or is that elsewhere and that switch is changing the values on the Thump?
Need to finalize what controls I'm going with for optional switches and NFB and email Robert to get some faceplates ordered... should probably get a thread up too even though I suspect progress will be REALLY slow lol
The tight switch adds the 2n2 cap to the 4n7 on the thump/depth like the JJ, and Slax have. I call it tight because that's what it sounds like (to me) when you add that cap, it tightens up the low end.
The NFB switch is on the back, it switches between 16ohm, and 4ohm taps.
Is the 2n2 cap added in parallel to the 4n7? I usually like smaller than 4n7 so that's why I ask.