Help Me Build a Rack Rig - UPDATED 12/7/2011

  • Thread starter Thread starter IndyWS6
  • Start date Start date
jlbaxe":1vainqxi said:
Zachman":1vainqxi said:
IndyWS6":1vainqxi said:
It seems like now that I have some of the big-ticket items purchased, the updates aren't nearly as earth-shattering (or as often). But, I'll take any progress as a win :yes:

Early on, Zachman gave me some information that showed what pieces and parts CAE uses when building racks, specifically the audio cable and plugs/jacks, so I ordered a slew of Switchcraft jacks (both straight and 90 degree) and 75 feet of Mogami #2319 cable to wire my pedal tray. Those items were delivered today, so I spent some time figuring out the best way to layout the pedals. I want it to be organized while leaving as much room as possible for pedals I may want to add in the future. I also ordered a Voodoo Lab Pedal Power 2 unit today that should be delivered tomorrow.

Over the next week or two, I hope to get all of the audio cables built and routed to the GCX and all of the power cables in place. I need to get some of the kick-ass Velcro and the self-stick mounts to wire-tie the cable bundles neatly to the shelf. Another step in the right direction...
:rock:

Right on!!!! Progress.... :thumbsup:

These little things are cool. They are plastic hole plugs that you can put in unused jacks of your pedals etc... You can kind of see them in my volume pedals here:

Volumepedals.jpg


http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Keystone-Electronics/8600/?qs=jLI/JnmL0oBoFQwvj1cXvw==
I have a white board that is 48x24 and I set it flat and put all my pedals on it in order. I then take a marker around them, remove them and look at it to see if I missed anything or want to change things around. Just did that last week, I will post a pic later.
Thanks :thumbsup:

Post it up - I'm open to any and all suggestions / help...
 
Velcro? I haven't read through all the post but have you looked into Dual Lock? Holds much better.
 
Here :lol: :LOL:
Looks stupid but helps for laying out a pedal board.
 

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jlbaxe":14xe0t8r said:
Here :lol: :LOL:
Looks stupid but helps for laying out a pedal board.
Doesn't look stupid to me - whatever "tools" you need to do the job the way you want it is acceptable in my book :yes:
 
Zachman":3ond5peg said:
I concur... Dual Lock FTW... You won't regret it
I used the terms "Velcro" and "Dual Lock" interchangeably --- and incorrectly. My bad :doh:
 
I spent some time on the wiring for the pedal tray this evening and made decent progress. I had already decided where on the tray I was going to put the pedals I have (leaving room for additions...) and rough-cut some cable to route it, so this effort was about creating a cable bundle, securing the bundle in a way that would allow the tray to be extended and cutting the cables to length so that the plugs could be soldered on.

For the record (as mentioned in the last post), I mistakenly assumed that Dual-Lock, recommended by Zachman and others, was the same as Velcro. I now know that I was wrong. I had already purchased "Industrial Strength" Velcro and have decided to use it. If it doesn't hold things securely, I'll remove it and purchase Dual Lock. Live & learn...

The first picture shows the pedals in position on the tray (upside down so that they don't "stick") and the tools needed - beer included ;)

The second picture shows a close-up of the position of the pedals. Even though I'm making my own cables, I used some pre-made cables with 90 degree plugs just to get the spacing correct (there will eventually be four pedals across the front...). You can also see the self-stick mounts that will secure the cable bundle.

The third picture shows the bundle as I'm starting to rough it in. I'm using Mogami #2319 cable, so it is pretty easy to work with.

The fourth picture is from the back of the rack and shows the cable bundle with the tray pushed in. I was starting to look at options for the service loop I would need to allow the shelf to be extended and decide where in the rack to place the bundle as it routes to the GCX.

The fifth picture shows how I decided to route the bundle. By going up the middle of the side, I needed less cable in the loop to allow the tray to be extended and it made it easier to deal with the excess with the tray closed.

The last picture shows the cables routed to the "send" and "return" jacks of the loops where they will connect.

Now I just need to solder the Switchcraft plugs on the ends (straight at the GCX / 90 degree at the pedals). With the way I laid it out, I should be able to remove the bundle by clipping the wire ties that attach it to the self-stick mounts without completely dismantling it. With luck, the bundle will retain its shape (within reason) and make it relatively easy to reinstall once the soldering is complete.

As always, commenst and suggestions are welcome...
:rock:
 

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Just curious as to why you decided to place the GCX so high and far away from your sliding pedal tray. Wouldn't you have saved a lot of cable if you placed it directly above the tray?
 
nevusofota":2olfhfq8 said:
Just curious as to why you decided to place the GCX so high and far away from your sliding pedal tray. Wouldn't you have saved a lot of cable if you placed it directly above the tray?

homer_doh.gif
 
nevusofota":2bau0ej2 said:
Just curious as to why you decided to place the GCX so high and far away from your sliding pedal tray. Wouldn't you have saved a lot of cable if you placed it directly above the tray?
If the GCX was closer to the pedal tray I could have saved a little cable, but not as much as you might think. I needed a certain amount of slack to allow the tray to extend and that amount would be (roughly) the same no matter where the GCX was mounted. Routing the bundle on the pedal tray and creating the service loop so the tray can extend is actually where I used the most cable. I might have been able to save about a foot of cable per run if I had mounted the GCX directly above the tray, but that amounts to a total of 6 feet and less than $3.00.

I chose to put the GCX up high in the rack because of the depth of the unit. It's shorter than the device below it, but longer than the one above it, which made it easier to route the cables to it. Plus, I don't have a wireless unit and will be using a cable, so having it higher in the rack makes it easier to plug-in the guitar cable.

This just seemed to make sense... :yes:
 
this thread is awesome! very cool rack so far man. its fun to watch it being built!
 
hthomas":110qlm13 said:
this thread is awesome! very cool rack so far man. its fun to watch it being built!
Thank you, sir... I appreciate the comments. :thumbsup:

I'm getting closer to completing the mechanical side of things. Soon it will be time to start editing and saving presets for the "go to" tones and songs with special effects requirements. That, plus the programming of the MIDI pedal, will be another adventure.
 
I don't think icould do the rack stuff and presets. To complicated for me. I'll stick with guitar pedalboard amp haha
 
hthomas":2veq3ba4 said:
I don't think icould do the rack stuff and presets. To complicated for me. I'll stick with guitar pedalboard amp haha
I'm not the best when it comes to dialing-in a rack to get great tones, but I can get close enough for the God awful acoustics of the places I'm likely to play. Plus, I have some friends with good ears that can help me refine the patches. I'm sure there will be times where, after tweaking knobs for way too long, I'll wonder "what the hell was I thinking" :lol: :LOL:
 
I think you'll be fine with the velcro. I used Dual lock to put down an EBMM volume pedal and stuff like that and when I wanted to take it off, I practically had to pry it off with a screw driver. It's crazy stuff.
 
dfrattaroli":9kxyzm6m said:
I think you'll be fine with the velcro. I used Dual lock to put down an EBMM volume pedal and stuff like that and when I wanted to take it off, I practically had to pry it off with a screw driver. It's crazy stuff.
I hope so. It seems to hold fairly well and I had to do some prying to get one of the pedals off when I was test-fitting things. That's why you see them upside-down in the pictures - I don't want to "lock" them down until I get the cabling finished.
 
Here is what it looks like after you tear it apart and redo it over 8 times. :lol: :LOL:

The new setup is going to be in a 6 space Rack from top to bottom:Monster 2500
Petterson tuner
Axe-FX U
Eleven R
 

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jlbaxe":290dgqp0 said:
Here is what it looks like after you tear it apart and redo it over 8 times. :lol: :LOL:

The new setup is going to be in a 6 space Rack from top to bottom:Monster 2500
Petterson tuner
Axe-FX U
Eleven R
Awesome :thumbsup: That cabling in the second photo would make me wake-up at night in a cold sweat, but I'm admittedly a little anal :lol: :LOL:

Post photos once you get the new setup together. I like looking at racks :D
 
I had mine like yours a few times then $@#*%^! :lol: :LOL:
I have a few more things to sell then I will get the Gator 6 space and a Monster 2500. I have lots of extra power cords now so I will cut them to length and do a neat job like yours.

I did solve my pedal problem, now no more trying to figure out orders and what effects I want. ;)
 

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jlbaxe":2bnatk1t said:
I had mine like yours a few times then $@#*%^! :lol: :LOL:
I have a few more things to sell then I will get the Gator 6 space and a Monster 2500. I have lots of extra power cords now so I will cut them to length and do a neat job like yours.

I did solve my pedal problem, now no more trying to figure out orders and what effects I want. ;)
Cool :thumbsup:
 
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