Marshall Super Lead with Mods - Too Bright

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Racerxrated said:
I think you're dealing with the nature of the beast, with that amp. You could try lower pot values maybe? In the eq? But that's a mod and you don't wan't to mod anything. If you run a pedal in front you can use the Tone control on a boost, to help darken it up better. When I darken mine it loses the 'bite' I enjoy. The louder I go the brighter mine gets; so If I'm going balls out volume I have to back off the mids/treble a bit. But I run the presence and bass on 10. there's a limit on how 'dark' I can make my amp.
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Yeah there’ll always be some characteristics inherent to an amp’s tone that can’t really be changed. I think we need more descriptive info from the OP than just saying it’s too bright. Does that mean simply too much high end or upper mids or rather is it that the amp sounds harsh, brittle, too sizzly, fizzy, or hard sounding? I find so often when one complains of a sound being told bright it’s not exactly the brightness itself that’s the problem, but rather other unpleasant traits that often go hand and hand with brighter amps, but not always

If it’s one of those latter things rather than too many highs or upper mids, then imo will be harder to fix and imo not something that can be solved with a cable or even eq pedal. Those will IME at best be like a band aid masking unpleasant sounds that are still there, just more subdued
 
braintheory said:
Yeah there’ll always be some characteristics inherent to an amp’s tone that can’t really be changed. I think we need more descriptive info from the OP than just saying it’s too bright. Does that mean simply too much high end or upper mids or rather is it that the amp sounds harsh, brittle, too sizzly, fizzy, or hard sounding? I find so often when one complains of a sound being told bright it’s not exactly the brightness itself that’s the problem, but rather other unpleasant traits that often go hand and hand with brighter amps, but not always

If it’s one of those latter things rather than too many highs or upper mids, then imo will be harder to fix and imo not something that can be solved with a cable or even eq pedal. Those will IME at best be like a band aid masking unpleasant sounds that are still there, just more subdued
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Even a phone recording would really help here, with some more detailed description from the OP.

People can be talking about any number of different things as far as a plexis brightness, that could be because of any number of links in the gear chain.
 
DanTravis62 said:
Even a phone recording would really help here, with some more detailed description from the OP.

People can be talking about any number of different things as far as a plexis brightness, that could be because of any number of links in the gear chain.
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Agreed. I think just a simple phone recording with the guitar straight into the amp and just play one long held chord can possibly alone give us the info to understand what he means by too bright
 
@braintheory well then! Did you not watch the YOUTUBE VIDJA with all the knowledge?! Where's your peer reviewed sources carefully refuting his carefully selected red herring?!
 
DanTravis62 said:
@braintheory well then! Did you not watch the YOUTUBE VIDJA with all the knowledge?! Where's your peer reviewed sources carefully refuting his carefully selected red herring?!
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Hm I think I’m not understanding this one
 
I don't think a single poster has refuted the fact that a long coiled cord is going to effect your guitar signal.
What is being scoffed at is that anyone these days (not back in the 60s and 70s when options were limited)
would choose a coiled guitar cord to solve an EQ issue.
 
TheToneDig said:
If this video demonstration is wrong or incorrect, can you explain why?

The rest was on this link in case you missed it. https://www.rig-talk.com/forum/threads/marshall-super-lead-with-mods-too-bright.233966/post-2639243

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I’ve never said anything about that stuff being wrong. Whether it’ll actually solve the issue the OP is looking to fix however is another story. Will see if he chimes in with more detail about what he doesn’t like in his sound because I suspect it’s not just brightness, but other more specific qualities that cables won’t truly fix. There’s a lot of nuances to tone that you’re posts imply a huge lack of awareness of with all due respect in me saying that, but anyway I’m not going to get into internet back and forth arguments. Not my style. You have you’re own approach that is different than the guys on here and that’s fine. To each their own

I’m here just to share and exchange info about gear and have fun when I can, so apologies if you were offended by my jokes. They were just that. None of us are jumping out of our loafers, going on long rants or wigging out (haven’t heard that one before lol)

Those nuances I’m referring to are what I think is needed to achieve tone that is really something exceptional vs just decent enough/gets the job done. The devil is in the details as they say
 
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Ok here comes the Ed thing. When he started using the 5150 he was using long cords, he used an SD-1 to bring the signal back up. Thread over :yes:
 
Racerxrated said:
This, exactly. I finally tried an og 72 SuperTrem, all stock and I’ve kicked myself for not trying one 14 years ago. Every JMP 4 holer I’ve tried previously had some type of MV added…they were ok but I’d take a stock JMP/JCM 2203 over them.
If I only knew how good these stock NMV JMPs were, I’d have saved a TON of cash.
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Luckily for me when I started playing in 1980, there really were not many options for amps and I didn’t have alot of money. These old used Marshalls were $250-350 all the time. The three I have were ones I bought early on and have been able to keep them. The ppivmv’s I never liked, they all work fine on ten, but that is about it for me. Got a juice extractor when they came out and had much better results. Had some 2203/04’s but always used these 1959’s. Just prefer their personalities. And they look cooler to me.
 
Greazygeo said:
Luckily for me when I started playing in 1980, there really were not many options for amps and I didn’t have alot of money. These old used Marshalls were $250-350 all the time. The three I have were ones I bought early on and have been able to keep them. The ppivmv’s I never liked, they all work fine on ten, but that is about it for me. Got a juice extractor when they came out and had much better results. Had some 2203/04’s but always used these 1959’s. Just prefer their personalities. And they look cooler to me.
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And here we are over 50 years later without amps that sound any better really than those lol. They cooler to me too, but probably for me just because of the metal stand-by/powerswitches vs the plastic ones that look cheap
 
braintheory said:
I’ve never said anything about that stuff being wrong. Whether it’ll actually solve the issue the OP is looking to fix however is another story. Will see if he chimes in with more detail about what he doesn’t like in his sound because I suspect it’s not just brightness, but other more specific qualities that cables won’t truly fix. There’s a lot of nuances to tone that you’re posts imply a huge lack of awareness of with all due respect in me saying that, but anyway I’m not going to get into internet back and forth arguments. Not my style. You have you’re own approach that is different than the guys on here and that’s fine. To each their own

I’m here just to share and exchange info about gear and have fun when I can, so apologies if you were offended by my jokes. They were just that. None of us are jumping out of our loafers, going on long rants or wigging out (haven’t heard that one before lol)

Those nuances I’m referring to are what I think is needed to achieve tone that is really something exceptional vs just decent enough/gets the job done. The devil is in the details as they say
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Ill make a video soon and show what I am talking about. I doubt I will mod anything being this was modded this way on purpose. I dont like the mid/high snarl that is like a tube about to blow up. Now this is how I explain it and it might be diffeent for someone else. But I wish I could dial that out, I assume its 3-5k range. Then add some umph from the bottom end and get more low punch.
 
Side question. Why would someone use a Xicon Polypropylene cap vs a mallory, sozo, etc...? They just look strange in to me. This amp has it on V1b. I dont know the value but V1a is .022 mustard.
 
Cap217 said:
Ill make a video soon and show what I am talking about. I doubt I will mod anything being this was modded this way on purpose. I dont like the mid/high snarl that is like a tube about to blow up. Now this is how I explain it and it might be diffeent for someone else. But I wish I could dial that out, I assume its 3-5k range. Then add some umph from the bottom end and get more low punch.
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This is helpful. I think I have an idea of what you could mean, but would still have to hear it. Yeah a cable will not fix that. I think an eq pedal could maybe subdue that, but not actually get rid of it and IME tube swaps again I think can possibly reduce it to some degree, but again not get rid of it fully. Maybe the tech savvy guys can chime in with mod or component advice that could help, but some amps (modded or not) can have inherent qualities that IME can’t be taken away

Adding more low end punch imo is more doable. Tubes like old mullard in particular can do very well with that, but within reason (don’t expect night and day differences)
 
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braintheory said:
And here we are over 50 years later without amps that sound any better really than those lol. They cooler to me too, but probably for me just because of the metal stand-by/powerswitches vs the plastic ones that look cheap
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I should say there are things about these amps that I hate and drive me crazy, but after some modding got rid of...and there are other amps that I use for different things, like probably everyone does. Trying to get a plexi to sound like a Rectifier just never seems to work out for some reason.
 
Greazygeo said:
I should say there are things about these amps that I hate and drive me crazy, but after some modding got rid of...and there are other amps that I use for different things, like probably everyone does. Trying to get a plexi to sound like a Rectifier just never seems to work out for some reason.
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I get ya. Got 26 amps myself and my Rev D Dual Rectifier is one of my favorite amps. Better suited to my usual style than my ‘67 Plexi, but no denying how great they sound still. I’ve not tried anything yet that really sounds like a rectifier to me other than a rectifier
 
braintheory said:
This is helpful. I think I have an idea of what you could mean, but would still have to hear it. Yeah a cable will not fix that. I think an eq pedal could maybe subdue that, but not actually get rid of it and IME tube swaps again I think can possibly reduce it to some degree, but again not get rid of it fully. Maybe the tech savvy guys can chime in with mod or component advice that could help, but some amps (modded or not) can have inherent qualities that IME can’t be taken away
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I should have mentioned that I retubed this with TAD EL34cz and china 12ax7b and a ruby china 12ax7 hg+ V1. Biased to 32ma at 117v wall.
 
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