Problem with my "New" Herbert... Phantom and MIDI Issue...

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mizati20
  • Start date Start date
Yea none of the pins are too stretched out... I see what you mean... it's just completely dead man... all the little midi pins are connecting... and I see why the top midi pin is bent to the side, if not it will just slide right out... I just have this horrible feeling this is going to be a nightmare... but I'll wait to hear from the man himself before I start getting to upset... thanks so much for your help Mark, it's much appreciated...
 
http://diezel.typo3.inpublica.de/upload ... ish_03.pdf

Look at page 14 with the midi jacks.

You may have to tighten them up with a tiny dental pick or mini flat head screw driver.

It must be something simple because if you had a real midi problem, the channel switching, mute and loop functions
on the front side would not function as well. It appears to be something simple like this.

Also, when in doubt Reboot and try new cables.
 
If you had a multi meter you can check for 12V+ on the midi pins and see if the fuse was damaged internally
from shipping.
 
Where to I place the leads to do that? And do I need the gator style clamp things? Or the needle point ones? God I feel like a complete idiot, I know nothing about the inside of an amp :doh:
 
From the outside. Put the black cable to the chassis and probe the red cable to the pins.
Set the meter to V - AC first or V - DC. Pin 3 and 7 will read the hot voltage and pins 1 and 6 can be tested with the continuity function
to ground. When you make contact with pins 1 and 6 the meter will beep. The same goes for the fuse. If it's good it will beep with both ends of the meter
touching each side.

From the Herbert Manual:

Midi in receives “program change” orders from commonly available midi pedals and control systems. The Herbert is able to supply phantom power to your midi pedal via a 7-prong DIN midi cable. This can help unclutter your stage system and rids the artist of these pesky power supplies.
Pin 1 and 6 is ground (-) Pin 3 and 7 is hot (+)
 
Did you use the same cable and midi pedal with your VH4 and it worked?

Set DMM to read 12V DC and put the two probes into the outer pins of the "in" midi jack.

Result?
 
You can either use a 5 PIN or 7 PIN midi cable, just make sure it is fully wired. Not all brands are unfortunately.
 
MARK2C":13l4wp3i said:
http://diezel.typo3.inpublica.de/uploads/tx_ohelement/Herbertenglish_03.pdf

Look at page 14 with the midi jacks.

You may have to tighten them up with a tiny dental pick or mini flat head screw driver.

It must be something simple because if you had a real midi problem, the channel switching, mute and loop functions
on the front side would not function as well. It appears to be something simple like this.

Also, when in doubt Reboot and try new cables.
Click to expand...

Do you mean the loop and mute channel switching wouldn't work from the actual switches on the front of the amp? Because all of that works, I can activate the loop, switch channels... and the mute works as well...
 
duesentrieb":1k2skqi7 said:
Did you use the same cable and midi pedal with your VH4 and it worked?

Set DMM to read 12V DC and put the two probes into the outer pins of the "in" midi jack.

Result?
Click to expand...

Same exact rig I used with my VH-4 and the other Herbert I owned... nothing changed at all... also, I'm gonna head out and grab a MM right now... but when you say the out most pins... do you mean from the inside of the chassis? Or from where I would plug the cable into? Because if it's inside the chassis there are 2 pins soldered to each other on either side...

What do you think it could be if all the controls still work on the front?

Btw you = the man
 
Just a quick thought. Does your switchable loop work ?

It uses the same voltage supply for the relays as the 12V phantom power.

If it does, your problem must be between the fuse and the midi sockets.
 
Silly comment but did you try simply replacing the fuse yet?
 
All the fuses look fine... :confused: Are there more fuses that aren't visible with the chassis flipped upsidedown? As I said... the switchable loop works... the mute works, I can switch through all the channels and turn the mid cut on and off... even the store button works... I'm leaving right now to get a Multi Meter... gonna get the croc leads and the needle point just in case... and I'm gonna take a fuse with me so I can stock up on those just in case, but all the fuses look fine, is there a fuse JUST for the phantom power?

You guys are awesome
 
Not sure if there are more fuses on the other side of the board, but if I had to guess I would say I HIGHLY doubt it, Diezel is pretty good at designing stuff for internal accessibility, I know with the Randall RM100, the fuses on the board caused quite a few problems when they would go out, because apparently if you turned the amp on and THEN plugged the midi in you could blow the fuses which was a pretty common occurrence... which is why it is the first thing I thought of, especially if all that other stuff is working. It sounds like the midi is working just not the phantom power..

I'd just replace any fuses that look Midi related simply because shipping is a brutal bitch on these amps no matter how well you pack them shipping companies are still very hard on them!

I'll think on it and see if I can come up with any other ideas...

Dallas
 
Dallas Marlow":xyxigtdu said:
Not sure if there are more fuses on the other side of the board, but if I had to guess I would say I HIGHLY doubt it, Diezel is pretty good at designing stuff for internal accessibility, I know with the Randall RM100, the fuses on the board caused quite a few problems when they would go out, because apparently if you turned the amp on and THEN plugged the midi in you could blow the fuses which was a pretty common occurrence... which is why it is the first thing I thought of, especially if all that other stuff is working. It sounds like the midi is working just not the phantom power..

I'd just replace any fuses that look Midi related simply because shipping is a brutal bitch on these amps no matter how well you pack them shipping companies are still very hard on them!

I'll think on it and see if I can come up with any other ideas...

Dallas
Click to expand...

Thank you so much... I've checked and double checked all the fuses and they are all fine... I'm going to replace all of them just in case... but again... is it strange I have all midi functions working via the switches on the front of the amp but no midi via the input jack?

Be back in 45 minutes with a DMM
 
Mizati20":11iyn6mu said:
duesentrieb":11iyn6mu said:
Did you use the same cable and midi pedal with your VH4 and it worked?

Set DMM to read 12V DC and put the two probes into the outer pins of the "in" midi jack.

Result?
Click to expand...

Same exact rig I used with my VH-4 and the other Herbert I owned... nothing changed at all... also, I'm gonna head out and grab a MM right now... but when you say the out most pins... do you mean from the inside of the chassis? Or from where I would plug the cable into? Because if it's inside the chassis there are 2 pins soldered to each other on either side...

What do you think it could be if all the controls still work on the front?

Btw you = the man
Click to expand...
The outer PINs, no matter if you are looking from the inside or outside. Measuring is safer from the outside for YOU of course.

My guess is that you cable is not working correctly or somebody resoldered the PIN to supply an Engl board with phantom power.
 
First off, how do you know that the fuse is good? Even if it appears to not be burnt, sometimes where they connect at one end can come loose and you will have no power that can flow through the fuse. To check, use your MM's continuity function and touch each end of the fuse. If it beeps, it's good, no beep, bad.

Then, you need to actually find out if pin 3 and 7 have power or not. Check on the outside where the cable plugs in and then check on the inside, on the back side of the plug to see if there is power at the plug itself. Again, if no power outside the amp, but power at the plug, then you have a pin problem. If no power on either side, test the wires for pin 3 and 7 and see if either of them are hot. Keep following the wires until you either....

1. Get lost trying to follow the wiring and at this point it's time to find a pro.

2. Finally find hot, then back track to the first dead spot and then you have found the culprit somewhere between your hot and dead points.
 
Ok so again I don't know shit about any of this... or what I'm doing with this multimeter... but when I set the MM to "mA/A" I only get readings from the 2 MIDI slots that are the furthest most clockwise (mind you the chassis is upside down) and it reads 2.05... and when I set the MM to "V" it reads 7.98... again I have no idea what I'm doing... but thats is what I'm getting...
 
Again I'm only getting a reading out of two midi holes... if the chassis is upright, its the two holes that would be at 10 and 11 oclock on a clock dail... they are both readin 7.98-8.00 on the "V" setting of my MultiMeter....
 
First, set the meter to continuity. It will make a beep when you touch the two lead ends together. When it beeps, put one lead a the the top of the backboard fuse and
the other at the bottom. If it beeps, good fuse. No beep, bad fuse.

Set the meter to V DC. Put the black cable/common to the chassis. The red cable/lead needs to be put to Midi In pin 3 first. document the reading.
Then put the red cable/lead to Midi In pin 7 and document the reading.
 
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