sandman
Well-known member
Any love for the Orange 4x12?
DanTravis62
Moderator
The fanes are great speakers. The p50s are one of the worst speakers in an expensive cabinet i've ever heard
DanTravis62
Moderator
I love the construction of the ppc 412, they look cool too. You have to keep in mind that speakers vary a ton though
i've A+Bed the chinese v30s to the old uk ones i normally use, and they sound good, but are quite a bit different imo
The high mid spike is way more intense, and they are less balanced in general
vultures
Well-known member
I love the PPC412 straight cab, older ones. I've had a handful that always sounded massive. I recently had a PPC412-AD, angled. It sounded really ice-picky. Too much high end and just washed out. Turned out Orange is using Chinese V30s on their newer cabs, and mine was a USA made one. I wouldn't pay that much money for a cab with Chinese speakers.
I've been through a lot of cabs, but I always come back to Mesa 4x12 Straight / Slant cabs. They have massive yet tight low end and the speakers always sound great. I like to swap in Creambacks in an X pattern with the V30's and it's a really killer combo. It tames some of the harshness of the V30's while still having nice attack.
sandman
Well-known member
Maybe some greenbacks on top and leave v30’s on bottom would be nice in the orange cab
Hiwatts-n-Gibsons
Member
Yeah, by way Matamp by way of Electric Amps. I have an Electric Amps Green 4x12 that is an absolute monster cab which is hamd made to the sane level of quality as any Matamp 4x12. I've had it loaded with a few different speaker combinations, and for a while ran it with two EVM12L and two Celestion G12H-100's. Monster metal and doom tones, but able to do huge cleans and lower gain hard rock tones well also. Would not be my first choice for classic rock or blues, but who the fuck buys a cab like this to play blues through in the first place.
I've since then swapped the EVM's for two alnico SRO12's which definitely widened the range of tones the cab does well, without neutering it for metal tones.
NeubyWanKaneuby
Well-known member
DanTravis62
Moderator
Absolutely - depending on what type of tone you're going for, some greenbacks, creambacks would be good
If it was me, i'd get really granular and get some scumbacks and ask jim what he would recommend to smooth out the v30s a bit
N
Nigel
Active member
Creamback/T4335 combo seems legit.
S/P makes recto cabs sound Godly.
Foam cures icepick and tightens.
Hard to believe they ship the cab where speaker load goes through tiny contacts on the jack/switch.
I did mine Bogner style with a single jack and Marshall Sound Runner 10ga 238 strand OFC wire. Fukken SLAYS, so big, fat, warm and clear. Life’s too short for bad tone.
J
JimAnsell
Well-known member
those are killer cabs. i had one of those with celestion g12h-30's in a live in road case that made it impossible to travel with in my car. however, i did have a good time rolling my bass player around the block inside of the closed road case after some drinks one afternoon. i'm surprised i didn't suffocate him lol.
glpg80
Well-known member
uh oh, cab pron
I'm still hunting for a couple new cabs. There are guys on this forum that make this look like "what couldn't fit in the amp room"
View attachment 388894
View attachment 388895
Which would you recommend if going for a pair - Splawn or Mills? Are all Mills ported?
Smash
Hack
I love my mills and dont feel like i need another cab, but these look awesome. What made you get rid of them? You still rocking any 4x12s?
Erock
Well-known member
no ported, I prefer sealed cabs. The Mills are oversized like Mesa, but seemed a bit tighter for my preferences after owning both. I can't honestly say which I would prefer, it would depend on the amp man. I wish I could give you a better answer. For an overall cab though, I would choose the Mills, just because of the build quality and design. The Splawn remind me of a higher quality 1960 cab, which can serve certain amps better IMO.
mesaboogieE34L
Member
Just get a KSR, made in America by Americans and they won't steal your money or rip you off.
bubbastain
Well-known member
Cat vet bills. Those cabs were the easiest thing to sell and I already had a couple of old Peavey VTM/Butcher cabs sitting around. I'm still playing through two 4x12's. If I'm not playing through two side by side 4x12's I'm not really interested in playing.
That's just always been my rig.
Smash
Hack
I always found side by side>stacked. And I don't understand playing through something smaller than 4x12 for sure. Maybe I should get a second cab again.Cat vet bills. Those cabs were the easiest thing to sell and I already had a couple of old Peavey VTM/Butcher cabs sitting around. I'm still playing through two 4x12's. If I'm not playing through two side by side 4x12's I'm not really interested in playing.
BeZo
Well-known member
Once upon a time, I made a big thread about modding cabs on here. I'm not going to necrobump it if it still exists, but rather gloss over the points.
1) Sealing the cab.
I have used RTV inside on corners of sloppy builds or made gaskets for hardware out of electrical tape to seal any air gap. I usually hardwire in one mono jack, and seal any other hole I can. Once the cable plugs the only hole, the cab is sealed. Sealed cabs have a tighter response due to the internal pressure differences. Basically, your speakers snap back and notes are crisper.
2) Speaker Wire.
I used good heavy duty speaker wire and solder all the connections. There is a lot of debate about tone with how or with what you wire your cab. I don't do it for tone, but for reliability. Clips rattle loose, and thin or cheap wire adds resistance. Good heavy wire is better for the speakers and the amp.
3) Gut any PC boards or switches.
If you run it mono, wire it mono. If you need it stereo, wire it in stereo and use it in stereo every time. Switches are a marketing gimmick that only serve as a failure point in real world applications. Cheap PC boards blow amps (Marshall)!
4) Baffling.
Internal baffling, which is sound absorbing material inside the cab, can dampen the sound inside and eliminate internal phase cancelation of certain frequencies. Sometimes this is good, and sometimes this is bad. Tone is subjective, and it depends on how much you want those frequencies. It might be great for some speakers in some boxes, and not so great for others. Stuff a bed spread in there and try it out. If it sounds good, get some actual insulation and staple it to the back, and put your comforter back on your bed.
Basically, you can make decent cabs sound better, and the best cabs incorporate these principles. My Splawn, Mesa, Bogner, Rivera, VHT, and even Carvin cabs were great because of these things. Marshall, Avatar, Ampeg, and a few others needed help to get there. YMMV
1) Sealing the cab.
I have used RTV inside on corners of sloppy builds or made gaskets for hardware out of electrical tape to seal any air gap. I usually hardwire in one mono jack, and seal any other hole I can. Once the cable plugs the only hole, the cab is sealed. Sealed cabs have a tighter response due to the internal pressure differences. Basically, your speakers snap back and notes are crisper.
2) Speaker Wire.
I used good heavy duty speaker wire and solder all the connections. There is a lot of debate about tone with how or with what you wire your cab. I don't do it for tone, but for reliability. Clips rattle loose, and thin or cheap wire adds resistance. Good heavy wire is better for the speakers and the amp.
3) Gut any PC boards or switches.
If you run it mono, wire it mono. If you need it stereo, wire it in stereo and use it in stereo every time. Switches are a marketing gimmick that only serve as a failure point in real world applications. Cheap PC boards blow amps (Marshall)!
4) Baffling.
Internal baffling, which is sound absorbing material inside the cab, can dampen the sound inside and eliminate internal phase cancelation of certain frequencies. Sometimes this is good, and sometimes this is bad. Tone is subjective, and it depends on how much you want those frequencies. It might be great for some speakers in some boxes, and not so great for others. Stuff a bed spread in there and try it out. If it sounds good, get some actual insulation and staple it to the back, and put your comforter back on your bed.
Basically, you can make decent cabs sound better, and the best cabs incorporate these principles. My Splawn, Mesa, Bogner, Rivera, VHT, and even Carvin cabs were great because of these things. Marshall, Avatar, Ampeg, and a few others needed help to get there. YMMV
Shask
Well-known member
I was actually reading the old thread recently, added weather stripping and rewired some cheap 212 cabs I have. They are sounding better!
BeZo
Well-known member
That's awesome.
For everyone else, here is the OP from twelve years ago. Fuck, I feel old now.
Modding Cabs
CarlF
Well-known member
The most expensive 4x12 I ever bought. This 3rd Power Dragon cabinet.
