The Definitive Yngwie Malmsteen Strat Thread, Pix & Video

[adrianb]

Thank you! Took a lot of time and effort to out this all together.

You're correct that are only threaded inserts in the neck and not on the body. That is the matching body and neck.

I love scalloped necks, so I'd recommend everyone try one out at some point!

Any plans to add a Play Loud replica to the collection?

 

[atrox]

You don't want the screws to thread into the body in any circumstances. I know a lot of cheaper bolt-on's have this happening and I always recommend making those hole bigger so the screws don't. A quality Fender for instance, will never have the screws actually screw into the body. They just pass through.

The reason for this is you'll get a tighter connection to the body if they only screw into the neck, but pass through the body.

That does seem kinda counter-intuitive. Care to elaborate?

As a luthier, what's your take on the threaded insert/machine screw approach?

I'm pro-insert all the way. The tighter and more stable the connection, the better. Especially if you're like me and take necks off often. That said, direct in wood, IMO, can be just as good as using inserts, but it's less stable over time (wood shrinks/expands. wood holes become less stable every time you unscrew and screw back in, etc)

As far as the screw actually screwing into the body, it's hard to explain, but simple in concept. You won't find a single quality bolt-on body that allows for the screw to to not just pass through. You want to remove that from the equation and have the purpose of the screws to attach the neck to the body. The head of the screw and neck plate act as the anchor. That is all you want on the body part. You don't need the screw to actually screw into the body, because, A: The anchor is doing all the work it needs to do there. and, B: Unless you have the neck super tight against the body when you screw it in (and even if you do), you are basically just screwing the neck plate to the body and not getting that perfect connection to the neck. If you remove the actually body from the screw equation, then you are getting 100% just body to neck attachment.

God i hope that makes sense. I'm not great at explain things like that, but it's basic physics.

Edit: Some Fender models do not allow for the pass through of the screw. It's a common mod to drill them out so they will pass through for a better grip on the neck. However... this shows how much of a big deal this isn't. I definitely have my opinion on the matter on about it SHOULD be done, but in the end, it's not gonna make a HUGE difference. I'm a man of simplicity though. Fact is, you'll get more force on the neck/body connection if you allow the screw to pass through, so why not do it that way?


https://www.callahamguitars.com/tech_yo ... kholes.htm

 

[adrianb]

As far as the screw actually screwing into the body, it's hard to explain, but simple in concept. You won't find a single quality bolt-on body that allows for the screw to to not just pass through. You want to remove that from the equation and have the purpose of the screws to attach the neck to the body. The head of the screw and neck plate act as the anchor. That is all you want on the body part. You don't need the screw to actually screw into the body, because, A: The anchor is doing all the work it needs to do there. and, B: Unless you have the neck super tight against the body when you screw it in (and even if you do), you are basically just screwing the neck plate to the body and not getting that perfect connection to the neck. If you remove the actually body from the screw equation, then you are getting 100% just body to neck attachment.

God i hope that makes sense. I'm not great at explain things like that, but it's basic physics.

Edit: Some Fender models do not allow for the pass through of the screw. It's a common mod to drill them out so they will pass through for a better grip on the neck. However... this shows how much of a big deal this isn't. I definitely have my opinion on the matter on about it SHOULD be done, but in the end, it's not gonna make a HUGE difference. I'm a man of simplicity though. Fact is, you'll get more force on the neck/body connection if you allow the screw to pass through, so why not do it that way?


https://www.callahamguitars.com/tech_yo ... kholes.htm

To my thinking, the added friction from screwing through the body should improve stability. But your explanation does make sense. It would be something interesting to model, if one had a strong grasp of the math.

Does the through-body screwing really improve sustain and frequency response though?

 

[atrox]

As far as the screw actually screwing into the body, it's hard to explain, but simple in concept. You won't find a single quality bolt-on body that allows for the screw to to not just pass through. You want to remove that from the equation and have the purpose of the screws to attach the neck to the body. The head of the screw and neck plate act as the anchor. That is all you want on the body part. You don't need the screw to actually screw into the body, because, A: The anchor is doing all the work it needs to do there. and, B: Unless you have the neck super tight against the body when you screw it in (and even if you do), you are basically just screwing the neck plate to the body and not getting that perfect connection to the neck. If you remove the actually body from the screw equation, then you are getting 100% just body to neck attachment.

God i hope that makes sense. I'm not great at explain things like that, but it's basic physics.

Edit: Some Fender models do not allow for the pass through of the screw. It's a common mod to drill them out so they will pass through for a better grip on the neck. However... this shows how much of a big deal this isn't. I definitely have my opinion on the matter on about it SHOULD be done, but in the end, it's not gonna make a HUGE difference. I'm a man of simplicity though. Fact is, you'll get more force on the neck/body connection if you allow the screw to pass through, so why not do it that way?


https://www.callahamguitars.com/tech_yo ... kholes.htm

To my thinking, the added friction from screwing through the body should improve stability. But your explanation does make sense. It would be something interesting to model, if one had a strong grasp of the math.

Does the through-body screwing really improve sustain and frequency response though?

Negligible amounts perhaps.

I see why you are thinking that, but in actuality, you are just binding the screw to the body and bolting the neck plate on. The screw into the body isn't going to add much of anything if at all. What you want is the neck to be forced onto the body as well as it can be forced. You want that wood on wood contact and force. You'll do better with that goal if the screw passes through.

Again, we are getting into the nitty gritty here. Very negligible differences.

 

[80sGuy]

Needless to say I'm a fan of Yngwie, and have been since the 90's when a biker friend of the family handed me a copy cassette tape of some Yngwie stuff.
I've been wanting an Yngwie Strat for as long as I could remember. Now I can finally afford to buy one, or more, so I started looking into the models. I was surprised to find that there are many.

The purpose of this thread is to try to help others that run into the same confusing things that I did when it comes to the Yngwie strats. Feel free to add info, or correct me if I'm wrong, so I can make this the most useful thread possible. I found this info all over the net, and compiled some myself from my own personal Yngwie guitars.

USA Fender Yngwie Models:

From my understanding there are at least 3 distinctly different US Made Yngwie Models. I have seen some variance here with alleged custom order models. All US versions have 4 bolt necks. There's also the Custom Shop "Play Loud" replica.

1st US Version 1988-1997:
Smaller 50's style headstock, neck, logos & body 9.5" Radius
Alder Body
Walnut truss rod plug with no truss Rod access from the headstock
Smaller 50's lettering
American Deluxe 2 point floating tremolo Stainless Saddles
Shallow even scallops
Small frets
Single roller string tree
DiMarzio HS3's neck/bridge, standard American pickup in middle
TBX(treble bass expander) Tone Controls for more range of sounds
Kluson tuners
Colors: Sonic Blue 72, Seafoam Green, Vintage white 41, Candy Apple Red 09
This is basically a hybrid of a 50's Strat with modern appointments and Yngwie Scalloped fret board
8lb 1oz......



......There's likely a lot I missed, so please feel free to chime in at any time!

There is no Seafoam Green on YJM Strats. It is actually the Sonic Blue which ages over time, thus turning it into a seafoam green effect. All three colors are still in production to date. Also, the very first year (1988) has DiMarzio tuning keys. Klusons came later, either late '88 or early '89 I believe. The DiMarzio keys are extremely rare. They are no longer made so if you find any today they will almost certainly run you a fortune! That said, here's my '88 in (originally) Sonic Blue, the very first year. Though I'm more of an early '70s CBS guy but this guitar is very well made and feels/sounds amazing!

 

[Brandon Breeze]

Big thumbs up and thanks for the info! I have seen a couple with those tuners for sale over the years, and I will say that I love my first edition with the small headstock. It plays absolutely amazing!

 

[Brandon Breeze]

And I just realized how much photobucket sucks. It took forever to make this thread with all the pix

 

[80sGuy]

And I just realized how much photobucket sucks. It took forever to make this thread with all the pix

I know. I use Flickr and sometimes Imgur, but I like Flickr more.

 

[Brandon Breeze]

Nice to see photobucket turned the hosting back on, sort of

 

[ElectricVoodoo]

Got mine in Sept. Absolutely love it to death !

 

[romanianreaper]

I'll always associate that vintage white strat with Yngwie, no matter who picks up another one. A black one is always Blackmore to me and that vintage white, Yngwie.

 

[Hamer95USA]

Great thread by the OP and good discussion from everyone else on this thread. I'm a big Yngwie Malmsteen fan myself, own & play a couple of Fender Strats myself, but not the like the YJM or old school '70s Strats with the large CBS headstocks. If someone can come up with as detailed photos & discussions about '80s - '90s Fender Japan Strat guitars, that would be really cool.

Guitar George

 

[Brandon Breeze]

Saved for more updates

 

[Brandon Breeze]

Bump for this old thread, just picked up my first 98-06', will be adding more pictures soon

 

[Brandon Breeze]

Finally picked up an 03' 2nd version. I'll be uploading more pics and video soon!

 

[Brandon Breeze]

Made a vid of the 2nd US Version!

And what appears to be an ST72-140YM

 

[Brandon Breeze]

NGD again, just received another YJM ?

 

[Brandon Breeze]

I have a few more on the way including an ST68-185YM, another 2nd US version, and an 07' 3rd US Version with hs3/hs4's. Can't wait to check them out and share the details!

 

[Brandon Breeze]

Picked up a 2nd US Version locally. Even came with a signed back plate by Yngwie!

 

[Brandon Breeze]

Just picked up an 07'! Unfortunately it's the worst of the bunch...

Also picked up an ST68-185YM!!! This is a total bad ass, it's made like the 68-69' Strats with Maple Cap neck, and no skunk stripe!