duesentrieb
Active member
Sure.
With the DPST and no IEC
or with DPDT and IEC?
With the DPST and no IEC
or with DPDT and IEC?
FourT6and2
Well-known member
duesentrieb":1f7phe3u said:
DPST and no IEC.
Also, someone on the Metro board just posted this. Does it seem right?
duesentrieb
Active member
If black is L then it is correct.
FourT6and2
Well-known member
duesentrieb":1vbpbiff said:
Thanks! I'll have to cut all my zip-ties now and rewire this thing.
duesentrieb
Active member
Believe, thats a minor thing when building amps 
FourT6and2
Well-known member
duesentrieb":u1u2cup6 said:Believe, thats a minor thing when building amps
Yeah, that's not so bad.
FourT6and2
Well-known member
Turret board is in! I've decided not continue until I get some more wire-ties. I had to remove a few to rewire the power section to modern standards so I don't die. And I've added a few ground wires (I'm doing a hybrid style of grounding - check out the pots). So, I'm not going to go any further so I can tidy everything up first. And it'll give everybody a chance to look it over and see if anything is wrong. I don't want to have to pull the board up.
And I've added a few ground wires (I'm doing a hybrid style of grounding - check out the pots). So, I'm not going to go any further so I can tidy everything up first. And it'll give everybody a chance to look it over and see if anything is wrong. I don't want to have to pull the board up.
LP Freak
Well-known member
Just double check your solder connections. It only takes one bad one and it's a pain to trouble shoot.
FourT6and2
Well-known member
Lp Freak":s2qn9uhm said:
I've been double checking as I go with a multi-meter for continuity. Is that what you mean? Or are you talking about cold joints?
LP Freak
Well-known member
Both.FourT6and2":2loiodo5 said:
FourT6and2
Well-known member
More progress today.
The Hoff
Active member
Moving pretty quickly. I'm glad there are people like you to do these types of projects. I'm so curious to how it will sound, seriously looking forward to clips 
novosibir
Well-known member
. . . or someone else?duesentrieb":1q4wyb19 said:
Although I don't know, whether the seen number still is a current RS number.
I've buyed this punch already 18 years ago.
HTH
But 5 minutes later (or 5 days
) it looks like here:
If you're interested on reading the whole building story (in German
), then check here:http://www.historiclespauls.com/forum/v ... f=3&t=1764
Larry
FourT6and2
Well-known member
hmmm, are IEC's a standard size? And who/what is RS? I might get a punch and put an IEC in. How does a punch work, do I need any other tools?
And Larry, how's my build look to you as far as routing/grounding all that stuff?
And Larry, how's my build look to you as far as routing/grounding all that stuff?
MrDan666
Active member
novosibir
Well-known member
No, it's too large in size!
Use this one:
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/sear ... &x=16&y=15
How to work with this thing?
Believe me, as soon as you have it in your hands, it's self explaining.
First you have to drill a (round) hole of about 9/16", that you can stick the square bolt through...
... but further I can't explain in English. Don't know the part's name in English , but last comes the nut 
Larry
Use this one:
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/sear ... &x=16&y=15
How to work with this thing?
Believe me, as soon as you have it in your hands, it's self explaining.
First you have to drill a (round) hole of about 9/16", that you can stick the square bolt through...
... but further I can't explain in English. Don't know the part's name in English
, but last comes the nut Larry
FourT6and2
Well-known member
novosibir":1b9tjxdc said:No, it's too large in size!
Use this one:
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/sear ... &x=16&y=15
How to work with this thing?
Believe me, as soon as you have it in your hands, it's self explaining.
First you have to drill a (round) hole of about 9/16", that you can stick the square bolt through...
... but further I can't explain in English. Don't know the part's name in English
Larry
Thanks!So, how does my build look so far? I know you're fairly knowledgable about this stuff.
EVERYTHING'S DONE!!!!
Well, except the board.
Saving that for later. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out so far. I've definitely learned a few tricks and what not to do for my next build (an SLO Clone) But I don't wanna speak too soon. Haven't fired this baby up, yet...Things I have left to do besides the board:
Put weight-releif washers on the PT and OT mounting bolts and throw some blue Loctite on them for good measure.
Power cord.
novosibir
Well-known member
Yeah, it's looking nice so far!
The heater wires are twisted nicely!
All the cables to the Volumes & the Tone controls away from the board, routed in the chassis' edge - perfect!
To use 4 independent 5.6K grid stoppers on the output tubes instead of the orig. 2 * 1.5K also is a good decision.
The ground bus NOT soldered to the pot's backs
Just both the green grid cables to V1a, V2a & V3a I'd rise up a bit off of the black heater cables, to avoid possible hum induction.
Larry
The heater wires are twisted nicely!
All the cables to the Volumes & the Tone controls away from the board, routed in the chassis' edge - perfect!
To use 4 independent 5.6K grid stoppers on the output tubes instead of the orig. 2 * 1.5K also is a good decision.
The ground bus NOT soldered to the pot's backs
Just both the green grid cables to V1a, V2a & V3a I'd rise up a bit off of the black heater cables, to avoid possible hum induction.
Larry
FourT6and2
Well-known member
novosibir":3ngfrrym said:
Yeah, I actually just had the same idea! I also read up a bunch on some of your posts on the Metro Forum before I began, so that helped me a lot with lead-dress and where to route everything. Thanks!
novosibir
Well-known member
Haha - nice to hear, that my posts are helpful!
Very appreciated!
Larry
Very appreciated!
Larry